Connection of the stovepipe directly into the existing masonry chimney over the fireplace opening is the only approved method. This installation performs bet- ter, yielding easy to clean and inspect for creosote. Before beginning this type of installation plan carefully; a high de- gree of skill is required to insure safety.
An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut through the chimney with minimum damage to the fire clay liner. Some involved measurements may be required to locate the flue liner exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark the size and position of the entry port. Position the entry port so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains below the port.
Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining. There should be a small air space (approximately 1/2 in.) between the stovepipe and thimble, al- lowing for expansion of the stovepipe. Seal this airspace with high-tempera- ture caulking or ceramic wool. Finally, be sure to wire the damper closed and apply the same sealant you used at the stovepipe and thimble junction.
Do not vent up through the fireplace opening, regardless of whether the fire- place opening is closed.
MASONRY CHIMNEY have several positive attributes: If properly built, they are quite durable, and most homeowners
Do not expect a heater to draw. It is the chimney that creates the draft. Smoke spillage into the house or excessive build-up of water or creosote in the chimney are warnings that the chimney is not functioning properly. Possible causes are:
1.The connection pipe may be pushed into the chimney too far, stopping the draft (Fig. 8).
2.Two heaters connected into the same chimney flue.
3.Same flue being used to ventilate the cellar or basement. If there is a cleanout opening at the base of the chimney, it must be closed tightly and sealed.
4.If the chimney is too cool, water will condense in the chimney and run back into the stove. Creosote formation will be rapid and may block the chimney. Operate the heater at a high enough fire to keep the chimney warm preventing this condensation. (Poorly insulated chimney)
5.The chimney top may be lower than another part of the house or a nearby tree. The wind blowing over a house or a tree falls on top of the chimney like water over a dam, beating down the smoke. The top of the chimney should be at least 3 feet higher than any point of the roof within 10 feet (Fig. 6).
6.Other chimney/flue inadequacies covered else where in this manual.
Keep in mind that wood mantels and combustible trim around the fireplace must have adequate clearances from the heater and stovepipe or must be protected in an approved manner. Also, be sure to leave at least 24" clearance between the top of the stovepipe and the combustible ceiling or other com- bustibles. Placing the center of the entry
consider them more attractive perhaps than a non-enclosed factory built chimney. And, if the chimney is located within the confines of the house (that is, not attached to an exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer and continue to release the heat long after the fire has died. Masonry chimneys have many disadvantages though.
NOTE:
A draft reading of .05 to .06 w.c. is suggested for proper burning of this
unit.
CHIMNEY MAINTENANCE
CREOSOTE-FORMATION AND NEED FOR REMOVAL
port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure proper clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10 inch stovepipes. Next, install a fire clay (at least 5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble, being sure that the thimble is flush with the inner flue lining. Secure the thimble in place with refractory mor- tar. The thimble should be surrounded on all sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.
Masonry chimneys constructed on an exterior wall are exposed to cold out- door temperatures, promoting greater heater loss, higher accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft which leads to poorer heater or furnace performance.
When wood is burned slowly, it pro- duces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice monthly during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up has occurred.
If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed.
Failure to remove creosote or soot may cause a house fire. Creosote may be removed by using a chimney brush or other commonly available materials. Or, better yet, by a certified chimney sweep.
Chimney fires burn very hot. If the chim- ney connector should glow red, immedi- ately call the fire department, then re- duce the fire by closing the inlet air control and closing the damper in the pipe.
CAUTION
A chimney fire may cause ignition of wall studs or rafters which you
thought were safe distance from the chimney. If you have a chimney fire, have your chimney inspected by a qualified person before using again.
