United States Stove 2007 owner manual Fireplace Installation Contd

Page 9

"FIREPLACE" INSTALLATION (CONT'D)

FIREPLACE INSTALLATION

Connection of the stovepipe directly into the existing masonry chimney over the fireplace open- ing is a more desirable method. This installation performs better, yielding more heat and better draft; it is also easy to clean and inspect for creosote. Before beginning this type of installa- tion plan carefully; a high degree of skill is re- quired to insure safety.

An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut through the chimney with minimum damage to the fireclay liner. Some involved measurements may be required to locate the flue liner exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark the size and position of the entry port. Position the entry port so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains below the port.

Keep in mind that wood mantels and combustible trim around the fireplace must have adequate clearances from the heater and stovepipe or must be protected in an approved manner. Also, be sure to leave at least an 18 inch clearance between the top of the stovepipe and the com- bustible ceiling or other combustibles. Placing the center of the entry port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure proper clearance for 6-inch, 8-inch, and 10-inch stovepipes. Next, install a fireclay (at least 5/8 inch thick) or metal thimble, being sure that the thimble is flush with the inner flue lining, secure the thimble in place with refractory mortar. The thimble should be surrounded on all sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.

Do not use the Type B installation (not illustrated in this manual), that is, venting up through the fireplace opening, regardless of whether the fire- place opening is closed.

Masonry chimneys have several positive at- tributes: If properly built, they are quite durable, and most homeowners consider them more at- tractive perhaps than an unenclosed factory built chimney. And, if the chimney is located within the confines of the house (that is, not attached to an exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer and continue to release the heat long after the fire has died. Masonry chimneys have many disad- vantages though. Masonry chimneys constructed on an exterior wall are exposed to cold outdoor temperatures, promoting greater heat loss, higher accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft which leads to poorer heater or furnace perfor- mance.

5/8" FIRECLAY FLUE LINER

STOVE PIPE CONNECTOR

SEALED AT THIMBLE

HORIZONTAL PIPE (24 GA)

WITH 1/4" RISE PER FT.

STOVE PIPE ELBOW

CLEARANCE REDUCER (FOR MANTEL)

STOVE PIPE (THREE SHEETMETAL SCREWS AT EA. JOINT OF PIPE)

DAMPER

FLOOR

PROTECTOR

Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining. There should be a small airspace (approximately 1/2 inch) between the stovepipe and thimble, allowing for expansion of the stovepipe. Seal this airspace with high-temperature caulking or ce- ramic wool. Finally, be sure to wire the damper closed and apply the same sealant you used at the stovepipe and thimble junction.

DAMPER THROAT

CLOSED AND SEALED

Fig. 7

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Contents Ussc Tools and materials needed CongratulationsKeep the firebox section free of excess ashes Safety RulesMinimum Clearance to Combustible Walls Locating the Room HeaterMounting CAST-IRON Flue Collar Chimney Connection Venting Into a Fireplace Page Fireplace Installation Fireplace Installation ContdRules for Connector Pipe Installation Operating Instructions Repair Parts for Wiring Diagram for Model Parts List for ModelGlass Replacement Instructions for Model Brick Placement TOP Inside View of FireboxPage HOW to Order Repair Parts