Part Six – Frequently Asked Questions
Q.When I tried to test the unit I got a high number on the digital display, but the alarm didn’t sound immediately. Why?
A.Please refer to “How the unit determines when to alarm” on page
Q.How much electricity does it take to run the CO alarm?
A.The alarm uses less than one watt of electricity.
A typical night light uses approximately four watts.
Q.Will the alarm last longer if I unplug it during the sum- mer months and only use it during the winter?
A.No. Some components of the alarm can deteriorate over time if not used regularly. We recommend the alarm be plugged in continuously for maximum alarm life.
Q.My alarm shows a reading of 30 ppm. and then drops immediately to “0” ppm., what causes this?
A.Per UL 2034 (section 3.19) which states “Warning signal: except for alarm and trouble signals, no other audible and visual signals shall be used. (ie: warning signals that indicate the presence of CO less than 30 ppm.)”. Nighthawk CO alarms can not display CO concentrations detected below 30 ppm. Under normal conditions, however, by pressing the peak level button, concentrations of CO detected below 30 ppm will be displayed. Refer to page
Q.I use the alarm in a vacation home that isn’t always occupied and can have temperature extremes when no one is there (no heat or no air conditioning). Will that hurt the alarm? Should I leave it plugged in all the time?
A.We recommend that your alarm not be installed in areas where temperatures fall below 40˚F (4.4˚C) or rise above 100˚F (37.8˚C). Your alarm was designed to be constantly plugged in for maxi- mum performance.
Q.I plugged in the alarm at my house (my parents’, my neighbors’, etc.) and it read “0.” Does that mean everything is OK? (I’m thinking I can return the alarm since every- thing checks out OK.)
A.This CO alarm is designed to act as a continuous monitor, it is not designed for use as a
Remember, a carbon monoxide problem can occur at any time, even after a professional inspection has determined that every- thing is in proper working order. Examples of problems that can develop are a crack in a furnace heat exchanger, a leak in a water heater vent, or a bird’s nest blocking a flue.
Other sources are nearly impossible to detect: even a change in the air pressure outside can turn a normally safe situation dead- ly. That’s why you need the