6 | Installation |
Cutting the Opening
20 3⁄8” |
(518mm) |
11 1⁄8” |
(283mm) |
Mounting Template |
Mount frame as shown, |
with IR knockout in |
Remove scrim before |
painting grille. |
After determining the best location for the speaker as outlined above, use the template included with the
WARNING: Exercise extreme care before making any wall cuts to ensure that you will not cut through any wires, pipes, or other items that may be in the wall. You may sometimes, but not always, be able to determine the approximate location of wires and pipes by looking at the locations of nearby outlets and plumbing. But their location or absence is never an assurance that there is not something within the
wall cavity.
Installing the Mounting Frame
The clamping mechanism allows the wall material to range from ½ to 1½ inches (13 to 38 mm) in thickness. There must be a mini- mum depth behind the wall face of
Insert the frame into the cutout and using a level or square carefully align it so it is level. Tighten the mounting screws, which will cause the attached clamps to rotate and position themselves properly behind the wall.
Continue to tighten until the frame is snug in the wall.You want the bezel to conform to the wallboard,and the frame not to rattle from the speaker’s vibration, but be very careful not to overtighten the screws.
Painting the Speaker Assembly
The white plastic frame and the metal grille may be left as is, or painted to match your décor. You can paint the frame before or after it is installed in the wall. Spray painting (using slightly thinned paint) is the best method to use for painting the grille. Be sure to remove the scrim cloth before painting the grille. After painting the grille, use air pressure to“blow out” any grille holes that are filled in with paint. Then
Speaker Connection and Assembly
Strip about ½" (13 mm) of insulation from the connecting wires. Connect them to the appropriate push terminal, being careful to observe polarity (positive to the red terminal, negative to the black terminal).