Craftsman 315.26921 manual Placingrouteronworkpiece, Feeding Too Fast

PLACINGROUTERONWORKPIECE

PUacing your router on a workpbce differs, depending on the type of routing: edge routing or internaU routing.

_ WARNING: Remain alert and watch what you are doing. Do not operate router when fatigued.

EDGE ROUTING

[] Place router on edge of workpiece, making sure the router bit does not contact workpiece.

[] Turn router on and let motor build to its full speed.

[] Begin your cut, gradually feeding cutter into workpiece.

_ WARNING: Keep a firm grip on router with both hands at aii times. Failure to do so could result in

loss of control leading to possible serious injury.

[] Upon completion of cut, turn motor off and let it

come to a complete stop before removing router from work surface.

,_ WARNING: Never pull router out of work and place upside down on work surface before the

cutter stops.

INTERNAL ROUTING

[] Tilt router and place on workpiece, letting edge of subbase contact workpiece first.

NOTE: Be careful not to let router bit contact

workpiece.

[] Turn router on and let motor build to its full speed.

[] Feed cutter into workpiece gradually until subbase is level with workpiece.

,_ WARNING: Keep a firm grip on router with both hands at all times. Failure to do so could result in

loss of control leading to possible serious injury.

[] Upon completion of cut, turn motor off and let it

come to a complete stop before removing router from work surface.

_ WARNING: Never pull router out of work and place upside down on work surface before the

cutter stops.

FEEDING ROUTER

The "secret" of professional routing and edge shaping lies in making a careful set-up for the cut and in selecting the proper rate of feed.

RATE OF FEED

The proper rate of feed depends on several factors: the hardness and moisture content of the wood, the depth of cut, and the cutting diameter of the bit. When cutting shallow grooves in soft woods such as pine, a faster rate of feed can be used. When making deep cuts in hardwoods such as oak, a slower rate of feed should be used.

The best rate of feed is one that does not slow down the router motor more than one-third of its no-load speed. If the router is fed too fast, it will take large chips out of the wood and leave gouge marks, ff the router is fed too slow, it wiii scorch or burn the wood.

Feeding Too Fast

Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites as it revolves. "Bigger bites" mean bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which could result in the router motor becoming overloaded.

Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM of the bit can become so slow--and the bites it

has to take so large -- that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than fully cut off), resulting in splintering and gouging of the workpiece. See Figure 11.

Your router is an extremely high-speed tool (15,000 - 25,000 RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too fast) feed. Three things that cause "force feeding" are bit size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the router should be advanced. Rfthe wood is very hard, knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed still more.

You can always detect "force feeding" by the sound of the motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and stronger as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be noticeably increased.

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