Changing Blades
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
TO INSTALL THE BLADE (FIG. 1 - 4)
1.Place inner clamp washer (G) on saw spindle with the large flat surface facing out toward the blade.
2.Retract the lower blade guard (F) and place blade on saw spindle against the inner clamp washer, making sure that the blade will rotate in the proper direction (the direction of the rotation arrow on the saw blade and the teeth must point in the same direction as the direc- tion of rotation arrow on the saw). Do not assume that the printing on the blade will always be facing you when properly installed. When retracting the lower blade guard to install the blade, check the condition and operation of the lower blade guard to assure that it is work- ing properly. Make sure it moves freely and does not touch the blade or any other part, in all angles and depths of cut.
3.Place outer clamp washer (H) on saw spindle with the large flat surface against the blade and the wording on the outer clamp washer facing you.
4.Thread blade clamping screw (E) into saw spindle by hand (screw has
5.Depress the blade lock (I) while turning the saw spindle with the blade wrench until the blade lock engages and the blade stops rotating.
6.Tighten the blade clamping screw firmly with the blade wrench.
NOTE: Never engage the blade lock while saw is running, or engage in an effort to stop the tool. Never turn the saw on while the blade lock is engaged. Serious damage to your saw will result.
TO REPLACE THE BLADE
1.To loosen the blade clamping screw (E), depress the blade lock (I) and turn the saw spin- dle with the blade wrench until the blade lock engages and the blade stops rotating. With the blade lock engaged, turn the blade clamping screw clockwise with the blade wrench (screw has
2.Remove the blade clamping screw (E) and outer clamp washer (H) only. Remove old blade.
3.Clean any sawdust that may have accumulated in the guard or clamp washer area and check the condition and operation of the lower blade guard as previously outlined. Do not lubricate this area.
4.Select the proper blade for the application (see Blades). Always use blades that are the correct size (diameter) with the proper size and shape center hole for mounting on the saw spindle. Always assure that the maximum recommended speed (rpm) on the saw blade meets or exceeds the speed (rpm) of the saw.
5.Follow steps 2 through 6 under To Install the Blade, making sure that the blade will rotate in the proper direction.
LOWER BLADE GUARD
WARNING: The lower blade guard is a safety feature which reduces the risk of serious personal injury. Never use the saw if the lower guard is missing, damaged, misassem- bled or not working properly. Do not rely on the lower blade guard to protect you under all circumstances. Your safety depends on following all warnings and precautions as well as proper operation of the saw. Check lower guard for proper closing before each use as outlined in Additional Safety Rules for Circular Saws. If the lower blade guard is missing or not working properly, have the saw serviced before using. To assure prod- uct safety and reliability, repair, maintenance and adjustment should be performed by an authorized service center or other qualified service organization, always using iden- tical replacement parts.
Cutting Depth Adjustment (Figures 5 - 7)
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
1.Hold the saw firmly. Raise the depth adjustment lever (J) to loosen and move shoe to obtain the desired depth of cut, as shown. Make sure the depth adjustment lever has been retightened (lowered) before operating the saw.
2.Your saw is equipped with a carbide tipped saw blade for long life and efficient cutting.
3.Setting the saw at the proper cutting depth keeps blade friction to a minimum, removes sawdust from between the blade teeth, results in cooler, faster sawing and reduces the chance of kickback. Align the appropriate mark on the depth adjustment strap with triangle on the upper blade guard (K). Your depth is set.
4.For the most efficient cutting action using a carbide tipped saw blade, set the depth adjust- ment so that about one half of a tooth projects below the surface of the wood to be cut.
5.A method of checking for the correct cutting depth is shown in Figure 7. Lay a piece of the material you plan to cut along the side of the blade, as shown in the figure, and observe how much tooth projects beyond the material.
Bevel Angle Adjustment (Figure 8)
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
The full range of bevel adjustment is from 0 to 56 degrees. The pivot bracket is graduated in increments of 1 degree.
There is a bevel angle adjustment mechanism (M) consisting of a quadrant with a pointer (N) and a lever (L) on the front of the saw.
1.To set the saw for a bevel cut, raise the lever to loosen the Bevel Adjustment.
2.Tilt the shoe to the desired angle by aligning the pointer with the desired angle mark on the pivot bracket.
3.Retighten the bevel adjustment by lowering the lever.
Bevel Detent (Figure 8)
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
The saw is equipped with a bevel detent feature. As you tilt the shoe you will hear a click and feel the shoe stop at both 22.5 and 45 degrees. If either of these is the desired angle, retight- en the lever (L) by lowering it. If you desire another angle, continue tilting the shoe until the pointer aligns with the desired mark.
Kerf Indicator (Figure 9)
The front of the saw shoe has a kerf indicator for vertical and bevel cutting. This indicator enables you to guide the saw along cutting lines penciled on the material being cut. The indi- cator lines up with the left (inner) side of the saw blade, which makes the slot or "kerf" cut by the moving blade fall to the right of the indicator. The ribs on the front of the shoe are at 1/4" (6.35 mm) spacing. The notches on the front of the shoe are at 1/2" (13 mm) intervals.
OPERATION
Switch (Fig. 1)
Pull the trigger switch (B) to turn the motor on. Releasing the trigger turns the motor off. This tool has no provision to lock the switch in the on position, and the tool should never be locked on in any way.
Workpiece Support
Figure 10 and 12 show proper sawing position. Figure 11 and 13 show an unsafe condition. Hands should be kept away from cutting area, and power cord is positioned clear of the cut- ting area so that it will not get caught or hung up on the work.
To avoid kickback, DO support board or panel NEAR the cut, (Figure 10 and 12). DON’T sup- port board or panel away from the cut (Figure 11 and 13). When operating the saw, keep the cord away from the cutting area and prevent it from becoming hung up on the work piece.
WARNING: It is important to support the work properly and to hold the saw firmly to prevent loss of control which could cause personal injury; Figure 12 illustrates typical hand support of the saw.
ALWAYS DISCONNECT SAW BEFORE MAKING ANYADJUSTMENTS! Place the work with its “good” side - the one on which appearance is most important - down. The saw cuts upward, so any splintering will be on the work face that is up when you saw it.
Cutting
Support the work so that the waste will be on your right. Place the wider portion of the saw shoe on that part of the work piece which is solidly supported, not on the section that will fall off when the cut is made. As examples, Figure 12 illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of a board, and Figure 13 the WRONG way. Always clamp work. Don’t try to hold short pieces by hand! Remember to support cantilevered and overhanging material. Use caution when sawing material from below.
Be sure that the saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut. Starting the saw with blade against material to be cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kickback. Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring. Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of material, and knotty or damp sections can put a heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more slowly, but hard enough to keep it working without much decrease in speed.
Kickback
When the saw blade becomes pinched or twisted in the cut, kickback can occur. The saw is thrust rapidly back toward the operator. When the blade is pinched or bound tightly by the kerf closing down, the blade stalls and the motor reaction drives the unit backward. When the blade becomes twisted or misaligned in the cut, the teeth at the back edge of the blade can dig into the top surface of the wood causing the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back toward the operator.
Kickback is more likely to occur when any of the following conditions exist.
1.IMPROPER WORKPIECE SUPPORT
A.Sagging or improper lifting of the cut off piece can cause pinching of the blade and lead to kickback. (Figure 11)
B.Cutting through material supported at the outer ends only can cause kickback. As the material weakens it sags, closing down the kerf and pinching the blade.
C. Cutting off a cantilevered or overhanging piece of material from the bottom up in a ver- tical direction can cause kickback. The falling cut off piece can pinch the blade.
D. Cutting off long narrow strips (as in ripping) can cause kickback. The cut off strip can sag or twist closing the kerf and pinching the blade.
E. Snagging the lower guard on a surface below the material being cut momentarily reduces operator control. The saw can lift partially out of the cut increasing the chance of blade twist.
2.IMPROPER DEPTH OF CUT SETTING ON SAW
To make the most efficient cut, the blade should protrude only far enough to expose 1/2 of a tooth as shown in figure 5. This allows the shoe to support the blade and minimizes twist- ing and pinching in the material. See the section titled “Cutting Depth Adjustment.”.
3.BLADE TWISTING (MISALIGNMENT IN CUT)
A.Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail, or a hard grain area can cause the blade to twist.
B.Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on the marked line) can cause blade twist
C.
D.Changing hand grip or body position while cutting can result in blade twist.
E.Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist if it is not done carefully.
4.MATERIALS THAT REQUIRE EXTRA ATTENTION
A.Wet lumber
B.Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
C.Pressure treated lumber (material treated with preservatives or
5.USE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES
Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To compensate, an operator will usually push harder which further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have insufficient body clearance which increases the chance of binding and increased loading.
6.LIFTING THE SAW WHEN MAKING BEVEL CUTS
Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper cutting techniques - especially guid- ance of the saw. Both blade angle to the shoe and greater blade surface in the material increase the chance for binding and misalignment (twist) to occur.
7.RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE TEETH JAMMED AGAINST THE MATERIAL
The saw should be brought up to full operating speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause kickback. Refer to the sections on “Adjustments And
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
Use only mild soap and a damp cloth to clean the tool. Many household cleaners contain chemicals which could seriously damage plastic. Do not use gasoline, turpentine, lacquer or paint thinner, dry cleaning fluids or similar products. Never let any liquid get inside the tool; never immerse any part of the tool in a liquid.
Lubrication
Self lubricating ball and roller bearings are used in the tool and relubrication is not required. However, it is recommended that, once a year, you take or send the tool to a service center for a thorough cleaning, inspection and lubrication of the gear case.
Electric Brake (DW369 Only)
Your saw has an automatic electric brake which is designed to stop the blade from coasting in about two seconds, after you release the trigger switch. It is useful when making certain cuts in wood where a coasting blade would result in a wide, imprecise cut.
Occasionally, the brake will not function properly and won’t stop the saw in the 2 seconds discussed above. If this condition persists, turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about 2 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes as described below and try the saw again. If the problem still persists, have the tool serviced at a DEWALT certified service center.
Repairs
To assure product SAFETY and RELIABILITY, repairs, maintenance and adjustment should be performed by authorized service centers or other qualified service personnel, always using iden- tical replacement parts. (See the section titled “Brushes” for brush replacement information.)
Brushes
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
Inspect carbon brushes regularly by unplugging tool, removing the end cap and withdrawing the brush assembly. Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same orientation in the holder as it was prior to removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped into their sides, and if either brush is worn down to the line clos- est to the spring, the brushes must be replaced. Use only identical DEWALT brushes. New brush assemblies are available at your local service center. Always replace the end cap after inspecting or servicing brushes. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load without a blade) for 5 minutes before use to seat new brushes.
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON.
HOLD BY HAND ONLY.
Shoe Adjustment
CAUTION: ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
Your shoe has been factory set to assure that the blade is perpendicular to the shoe. If after extended use, you need to
ADJUSTING FOR 90 DEGREE CUTS
1.Return the saw to 0 degrees bevel.
2.Place the saw on its side, and retract the lower guard.
3.Loosen the bevel adjustment lever (L). Place a square against the blade and the shoe as shown in figure 14.
4.Using a hex wrench, turn the set screw on the underside of the shoe until the blade and the shoe are both in flush contact with the square. Retighten the bevel adjustment lever.
ADJUSTING DEPTH ADJUSTMENT AND BEVEL ADJUSTMENT LEVERS (FIGURE 15)
It may be desirable to adjust the depth adjustment lever or the bevel adjustment lever. They may loosen in time and hit the shoe before tightening. To tighten the levers, follow the steps below.
ADJUSTING THE BEVEL ADJUSTMENT LEVER
1.Using a small screwdriver, pry the lock ring off.
2.Remove the lever and rotate it in the desired direction about 1/8 of a revolution.
3.Reinstall the lock ring with the concave side against the lever.
ADJUSTING DEPTH ADJUSTMENT LEVER - (DW369 ONLY)
1.Loosen the screw securing the depth adjustment lever.
2.Remove the depth adjustment lever and rotate it to the desired location, about 1/8 of a revolution.
3.Tighten the lever screw.
Blades
A dull blade will cause inefficient cutting, overload on the saw motor, excessive splintering and increase the possibility of kickback. Change blades when it is no longer easy to push the saw through the cut, when the motor is straining, or when excessive heat is built up in the blade. It is a good practice to keep extra blades on hand so that sharp blades are available for imme- diate use. Dull blades can be sharpened in most areas; see
Hardened gum on the blade can be removed with kerosene, turpentine, or oven cleaner. Anti- stick coated blades can be used in applications where excessive
ACCESSORIES
Recommended accessories for use with your tool are available at extra cost from your local service center.
CAUTION: The use of any
DO NOT USE WATER FEED ATTACHMENTS WITH THIS SAW.
VISUALLY EXAMINE CARBIDE BLADES BEFORE USE. REPLACE IF DAMAGED.
RECOMMENDED BLADE TYPES
COMBINATION FRAMING - 5/8" Round arbor, 24 teeth
All purpose fast rip and cross cuts.
PRESSURE TREATED/WET LUMBER - 5/8" Round arbor, 20 teeth
Coated - Resistant to gum
EXTREME DURABILITY - | 5/8" Round arbor, 18 teeth |
| Coated, rock carbide |
|
|
FINISHING - | 5/8" Round arbor, 36 teeth |
| More teeth for finer finish cuts. |
|
|
FAST CUT FRAMING - | 5/8" Round arbor, 16 teeth |
| Fastest blade for rips and cross cuts |
