CAUSE C
Thermostats may not be functioning correctly or may be improperly set.
SOLUTION - Inspect thermostats for proper operation and correct settings. If setting is below the maximum, reset to 190ºF(88ºC) If defective and not functioning, replace.
CAUSE D
Contactors are not performing.
SOLUTION - Inspect contactors for proper operation by visual observation. Assuming no fuses are blown and power is coming to the booster, inspect the coil and replace if defective.
CAUSE E
ECO (high temperature limit switch) may be defective.
SOLUTION - Check for proper operation and replace if defective.
CAUSE F
The fuse is blown.
SOLUTION - Replace fuse. If fuse continues to blow, either a contactor coil is defective, or the booster control transformer is defective. If booster has more than one contactor, disconnect wires so only one contactor at a time is energized. The defective one can then be isolated and replaced.
On all boosters with low water
CAUSE G
Relay does not pull in after booster is filled with water and air bled out.
SOLUTION
1.Check for voltage at line terminals 1 and 2 using
2.Open circuit between ground and the probe. Check for broken wire or poor contact at connections. To test, run temporary wires from probe terminal #3. If relay pulls in, the wire is broken and should be replaced.
3.Check or open relay coils. With line voltage applied at 1 and 2, connect a jumper wire between 6 and 7. Relay should pull in when the jumper is connected and fall out when the jumper is removed. Failure to do so indicates one of the coils is open and the relay should be replaced.
4.Fouled probe. If solution 2 discloses no broken wire or poor connection and relay still does not pull in, probe tip may be insulated by lime buildup. If relay operates when a jumper wire is connected between terminals 3 and ground, the probe is fouled. Remove probe and clean the electrode.
TEMPERATURE REACHES ONLY
CAUSE A
Booster should be close to the dishwasher, (5 feet or less). If the booster is more than 5 feet away, the heat loss through the pipes is the most likely reason the dishwasher thermometer reads only 170ºF
(77ºC). Make certain the thermostats are set to their maximum calibration. They are
SOLUTION - The booster should be moved to within 5 feet of the dishwasher if possible, and the pipes should be insulated.
CAUSE B
Thermostats may not be functioning correctly.
NOTE:
To help determine this cause, check rinse temperature in the dishwasher. Since the dishwasher temperature gauge could become defective, it is preferable to rely on a temperature sensitive tape or a thermometer rather than the gauge for checking this cause.
SOLUTION - If maximum reading is below 180ºF, (82ºC) first turn the pointers all the way up on all thermostats. If the reading is still below 180ºF (82ºC), minor adjustments can be made on the thermostats. If recalibration does not help, the thermostat is defective and should be replaced.
BOOSTER HEATER REPEATEDLY BLOWS FUSES OR TRIPS CIRCUIT BREAKERS.
NOTE:
Fuses or circuit breakers should not be loaded to more than 80% of their rating.
CAUSE A
Fuses are
SOLUTION - Check “Fuse and Disconnect Switch Sizes” table for recommended sizes. Replace undersized fuses with correct one.
CAUSE B
Short circuit in internal heater wiring.
SOLUTION - By visual inspection check for: loose connections, grounded heating elements, frayed insulation and foreign matter touching wiring terminals.
WHEN THE DISHWASHER AND THE BOOSTER HAVE BEEN IDLE FOR SEVERAL HOURS, RELIEF VALVE OPENS OR ECO TRIPS.
CAUSE A
A cause of overheating and resulting relief is excessive primary water temperature. Primary water temperature should not exceed 160ºF (71ºC).
SOLUTION - Check to be sure primary water heater is functioning properly. Primary water heater thermostats may be set too high, causing nuisance tripping. Adjust primary heater thermostats to
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