SERVICE INFO

Details concerning Warranty Service are spelled out on the Warranty Card included with your subwoofer (if it’s missing, let us know and we’ll rush one to you).

If you think your subwoofer has a problem, please do everything you can to confirm it before calling for service, including reading through the following Troubleshooting section. Doing so might save you from deprivation of your monitor and the associated suffering.

Of all Mackie products returned for service (which is hardly any at all), roughly 50% are coded “CND” — Could Not Duplicate, which usually means the problem lay somewhere else in the system. These may sound obvious to you, but here are some things you can check:

Troubleshooting

No Power
•Our favorite question: Is it plugged in?

•Make sure the power cord is securely seated in the IEC socket and plugged all the way into the AC outlet.

•Make sure the AC outlet is live (check with a tester or lamp).•Is the POWER switch on the rear panel in the ON position?

•Is the POWER LED or BYPASSED LED on the rear panel illuminated? If not, make sure the AC outlet is live. If so, refer to “No Sound” below.

•If the POWER LED or BYPASSED LED is not illuminated, and you are certain that the AC outlet is live, it will be necessary to have the HRS150 serviced. There are no user-serviceable parts inside. Refer to “Repair” at the end of this section to find out how to proceed.

No Sound

•Is the POWER LED or BYPASSED LED on the rear panel illuminated? If not, refer to “No Power” above.

•Is the INPUT SENSITIVITY control turned up?

•Is the signal source turned up? Make sure the signal level from the mixing console (or whatever device immediately precedes the subwoofer) is high enough to produce sound.

Bad Sound
•Is the input connector plugged completely into the jack?•Is it loud and distorted? Reduce the signal level at the mixer.

•If possible, listen to the signal source with headphones plugged into the preamp stage. If it sounds bad there, it’s not the subwoofer.

•Too much bass or not enough bass? Move around the room and see if the bass response changes. It’s possible your listening position coincides with a room mode where the low frequencies either become exaggerated or nulled. If so, try moving the subwoofer to a different position, or moving your listening position.

•If the signal source is an LFE or subwoofer output from a home theater preamplier, make sure the signal level for the low- frequency output is turned up in the preamp. If you have connected the low- frequency signal to the LEFT (and RIGHT) INput, make sure the FILTER BYPASSED switch is pushed in.

Noise/Hum/Buzz

•Check the signal cable between the mixer/ preamp and the subwoofer. Make sure all connections are secure. These problems usually produce crackling noises, hum, or buzz.

•If connecting an unbalanced output to the HRS150 balanced input, make sure the shield is connected to both pins 1 and 3 on the XLR.

•If a CATV cable is connected to the system, try disconnecting it. If the hum goes away, call your cable carrier to check for proper grounding of the cable.

•Make sure the signal cable is not routed near AC cables, power transformers, or other EMI sources (including wall warts and line lumps!). These sources usually produce hum.

•Is there a light dimmer or other triac-based device on the same AC circuit as the monitor? Dimmers cause buzzing noises. Use an AC line filter or plug the subwoofer into a different AC circuit.

•If possible, listen to the signal source with headphones plugged in. If it sounds noisy there, it’s not the subwoofer.

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