Cutting Large Panels

Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without leveling and properly supporting the workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.

Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece, not through the supports.

Fig. 18

Ripping Wood

Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and lock the setting by tightening the rip fence screws.

When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack 1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of the shoe as a guide.

Cross-Cutting Wood

Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the proper blade for your job. Ad- vance the saw slowly to avoid splintering the wood.

Fig. 19

WARNING

To reduce the risk of electric shock, check work area for hidden pipes and wires before making pocket cuts.

Pocket Cutting

Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece when it can not be cut from an edge. We recommend using a Sawzall® reciprocating saw or jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 20).

Fig. 20

1.Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, firmly fixing the front of the shoe on the workpiece. The blade should be just above cutting line, but not touching it. Raise the lower guard using the lower guard lever.

2.Pull the trigger, allowing the blade to come up to full speed. Using the front of the shoe as a hinge point, gradually lower the back end of the saw into the workpiece.

3.When the shoe rests flat against work- piece, release the lower guard lever. Ad- vance the saw to the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing it from workpiece. Repeat the above steps for each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall® reciprocating saw, jig saw or small hand saw to finish the corners if they are not completely cut through.

Cutting Masonry and Metal

MILWAUKEE circular saws are not intended for continuous use in cutting metal or ma- sonry. When cutting these materials, use the correct blade. MILWAUKEE does not recommend using bonded abrasive wheels on circular saws for any application.

WARNING

Dust, chips, and grit can cause guard to hang up at any time. If saw is used to cut masonry or metal, reserve and mark it for that purpose only and return it to a MILWAUKEE service facility for cleaning and testing before using it for wood cutting.

WARNING

Only use accessories with maxi- mum speed rating at least as high as nameplate RPM of tool.

When cutting masonry, use a diamond blade. Make successive passes at depths of less than 1/4" to achieve the desired depth. Cut- ting at a depth of more than 1/4" will damage wheel. Unplug the tool and frequently clean dust from air vents and guards.

WARNING

Do not use tool for cutting metal near flammable material. Sparks may cause fire.

When cutting metal, use a metal cutting blade. Set depth of cut to full depth. Protect everyone in the area from sparks.

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Milwaukee 6391 manual Cutting Large Panels, Ripping Wood, Cross-Cutting Wood, Cutting Masonry and Metal