Porter-Cable 126 ADJUSTMENTS

ADJUSTMENTS

Carefully fit doors to the jambs with ample clearance to ensure free movement.

The 126 Plane is ideally suited for this job. New doors delivered from the supplier

have squared edges along two sides (stiles), and lugs extending at the top and

bottom beyond the rails. Plane the hinged side with a slight angle to the inside

edge. Measure the width of the opening at top and bottom and transfer the

dimensions to the door, marking from the hinge stile. Plane the lock stile 1/8"

narrower than the door opening and with a bevel of about 10 degrees to the

inside. Cut and plane the top and bottom rails 90 degrees. Remove all sharp

edges on the door with a 1/64" cut and smooth with sandpaper.

One major difficulty in finishing plywood is planing a smooth edge without

breaking out the cross-grain ply at the corners. A piece of scrap can be tacked or

clamped to the end so that the plane can run out its complete cut. The plane will

give the best finish cut on all sizes and types of plywood, provided small

amounts of material are removed with each pass. Set the depth graduation for

only a slight advance each time a pass is made. When approaching the end of

the pass, move the plane very slowly and put all the pressure on the rear shoe.

The fitting edge is not straight on many doors, screens, storm windows,

baseboards, or other long edges. Mark the line carefully with a pencil and notice

where the greatest amount of material must be removed. Start the plane with the

depth adjusting lever set at “0” well behind the high spot. As the plane advances,

advance the lever to cut deeper. When the high spot is passed, turn the lever

back. Work down the length of the board or door edge working carefully to the

pencil line. A true fit can be accomplished by this method provided the bow or

bend is not too great. Uneven boards can have straight edges by working down

high spots first and by cutting only 1/64" of material with each pass.

You should be able to move the tension lever easily with your thumb, but it

should also be tight enough that it would be difficult to move it unintentionally.

Tighten or loosen the nut (A) Fig. 10 at

the front of the depth adjusting lever

until the right tension is found. Be

sure that the lever is not too loose

and can hold its setting for the full

length of cut.

DISCONNECT THE TOOL FROM THE POWER SOURCE!

Fig. 10