CHIMNEY INSTALLATION
With the chimney being the most important part to your installation, great care should be given to its design.
MASONRY CHIMNEYS
If your intention is to use an existing masonry chimney, check first with your local building official to see if this is acceptable.
An older chimney, in need of repair, is the GREATEST fire hazard in any installation.
STOVEPIPE(FLUEPIPE)CONNECTION
The flue pipe you should use is 6" or 8" 24 gauge or heavier steel pipe.
When installing the flue pipe, make sure all joints are se- cured with at least three (3) sheet metal screws. This includes the connection to the flue collar of the furnace. For added protection, use some high temperature furnace cement to seal each joint.
The stove pipe should slope upward to the chimney at a rate of 1/2 inch per foot. Any horizontal runs of stove pipe should not exceed six (6) feet and it should be supported every four (4) feet. Note: Flue pipe should be attached inside the flue pipe collar to prevent creosote from running down onto electrical motors.
FACTORY-BUILTORMETALCHIMNEYS
If your home has an existing metal chimney, the same rules apply as with masonry chimneys. One thing to be espe- cially aware of is that "Class B" chimneys are for gas appli- ances only, not solid fuel burners. If purchasing a new package, consult with the dealer. He will provide the nec- essary parts and instructions for installation.
INSTALLING A NEW CHIMNEY
When installing a new chimney, whether it be masonry or metal, if possible, it is recommended that it is placed within the house structure. These chimneys remain warmer and, in turn, radiate this warmth into the house. A chimney located outside the house is exposed to cold temperatures which encourages creosote
CONNECTING STOVE PIPE TO A METAL CHIMNEY
When using a metal chimney, part of the installation pack- age should include a stove pipe connector. Follow the in- structions provided with the chimney and its parts.
CHIMNEY DRAFT REGULATORS
(OPTIONAL) BAROMETRIC DAMPER
These devices are used to help maintain adequate chimney draft automatically. They should be installed according to their instructions and set at .04 to .06 inches of water column.
CONNECTION OF FLUE PIPE TO A MASONRY CHIMNEY
When connecting flue pipe to a masonry chimney, there are two ways to go:
1.The flue pipe itself can be cemented into the chim ney or;
2.A thimble can be used which is cemented into the chimney, and the flue pipe fits into the thimble.
In each case, care must be taken. The outer masonry (brick or block) must be chipped away, and the inner liner must be pierced. The flue pipe or thimble is then inserted flush to the inside face of the tile liner. NOT ANY FURTHER!
Use furnace cement or mortar to seal this connection. When connecting the flue pipe, make sure the attachment is se- cure enough so down draft or "puffs" do not dislodge it.
USSC
MANUAL DAMPER
(RECOMMENDED FOR ADDED SAFETY)
These are used to control chimney draft manually and should be installed in a convenient place between furnace and chimney. In the event of a chimney fire, it should be closed reducing air to the chimney fire.
A combination of both barometric damper and manual damper may be used. If this is the case, install the manual damper between the barometric damper and the chimney.
VENTILATION FOR YOUR FURNACE
There are many appliances which require "make up" air to operate. However, with a combustion air draft fan, "make- up" air is not usually necessary with your wood furnace.
If your home is sealed exceptionally well, use a 3" or 4" diameter duct vented to the outside and terminating in the vicinity of the combustion air draft fan. Also, it is possible for your fans to draw in furnace smoke if there is only dead air in the area. Note: It's highly recommended that a cold air return system be utilized. Simply attach a 14" round to a filter box adapter and attach to cold air return. Also, a cold air return increases motor life.
