CHIMNEY INSTALLATION
Your new furnace must be installed into a "Class A" Chimney only. This type of chimney consists of a flue lined brick chimney, or an approved "Class A" all fuel factory built (prefabricated) type. Any other installation guarantees an immediate fire hazard.
Do not install the furnace into the same chimney serving other appli- ances.
When using 8" flue pipe, the chimney should have an 8" to 10" round flue liner or 9"x9" square liner.
The chimney should have a minimum height of 3' from the top of the chimney to the point at which it passes through the roof.
The top of the chimney must be at least 2' higher than the peak or the highest portion of the roof within 10' horizontally.
A chimney that rises within the house is better insulated than a chim- ney that is located outside the house and exposed to the weather, the north side of the house is the worst position.
Check manual for proper installation of flue pipe into chimney.
FURNACE INSTALLATION
Install your furnace as close to the chimney as possible with a minimum of elbows, no more than two and a flue pipe run of no more than 6 feet horizontally. Also, the flue pipe should contain a 1/2" rise per foot and NEVER be installed closer than 18" from combustibles.
WOOD BURNING: Install a manual flue pipe draft damper at a safe, convenient location between your furnace and chimney.
COAL BURNING: Install a barometric damper set at .05 Water Column.
AIR FLOW: Solid Fuel furnaces produce much hotter air than oil or gas fired appliances so all clearances are mandatory.
AIR DUCT INSTALLATION: This furnace provides a 12" round (113 sq. in.) opening, because of efficiency and general convenience.
United States Stove Company recommends a Parallel Furnace Installa- tion with direct (ducted) feed or return air to your furnace. NOTE: Cold air duct intake must be at least 25% larger than hot air duct outlet.
FURNACE ASSEMBLY
U.S. Stove provides easy step by step pictures, therefore, the fur- nace assembly procedure should be understandable.
FIRING YOUR FURNACE
Start on a conservative basis. Your new furnace, when properly fired with hard dry wood will achieve approximately 6 to 8 hours of burn time per load of wood, much longer with coal. If the furnace is being fired hot constantly with full flames and only provides a 3 hour burn cycle, the furnace is being overfired. Possibly your heating requirements are too much for the size of furnace purchased. Certainly allowing your existing furnace to assist in extremely cold weather is no crime. Re- member, your furnace can be damaged if fired continually at extremely high temperatures and this procedure will void your warranty.
CAUTION: OVERFIRING YOUR FURNACE VOIDS WARRANTY.
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OVER FIRING
This generally occurs when the following procedures are not fol- lowed, ash door is open (even partially open), the feed door pressure relief flap is open, the feed door is open or the manual draft spinner is open. Open the ash and feed doors only when in attendance, never leave the furnace unattended when doors are open. This furnace has an automatic draft fan so use the manual draft with a specific purpose. Also, an overfilled ash drawer can cause grate warpage, keep ash drawer clean. Don't use furnace if distribution fan isn't functioning properly, and keep air filter clean. Draft fan opening should be set at 1/2" open as a point of start, depending on condition of fuel.
U. S. Stove recommends a very active fire at all times for maximum results, but only as instructed.
SOME HELPFUL HINTS
•Your furnace will hold logs approximately 2" shorter than the length of the firebox. Don't force in oversized logs.
•Unsplit, dry logs will provide longer burn time than split logs. •Don't ever try to burn trash or garbage.
•Keep flue pipe stack temperature between 300 and 400 degrees. This will reduce creosote
•Weather is the most important determinant in how you operate your furnace (assuming you have dry wood).
•The colder it is the stronger the draft, warm weather reduces draft. Set your draft fan rheostat and manual draft accordingly.
•Open manual smoke damper only when starting the fire and when chimney draft is marginal.
•Always place logs so air can flow between them.
•Shake gently (up to 10 o'clock down to 8 o'clock) don't try to loose weight shaking down ashes!
•Wood ash is useful as a fertilizer because it contains potassium, ashes also decrease the acidity of the soil. Coal ashes will provide good traction on ice or snow, otherwise they are useless.
•Always store ashes in a metal container with a lid.
•Ashes are a good thermal insulator and will keep enough oxygen away so embers will not burn out.
•Never, never let ashes accumulate up to grate level, this will greatly reduce the life span of your grate.
•Coal produces much more ash than wood.
•Keep your chimney and flue pipe clean, check monthly.
•Smoke detectors and fire extinguishers should always be a part of your equipment.
•Never use chemicals or fluids such as gasoline, charcoal lighter, drain oil or kerosene to light a fire.
•Oil the air fan motors yearly. They do not contain bearings, sleeves with felt. Therefore keeping fan air clean is more important than oiling.
•Turn on your regular furnace once every month to keep it tuned up.
•Always shut the furnace down gradually to prevent excessive stress on steel.
WARPAGE OF STEEL IS COMMON, AGGRESSIVE BUT GENTLE FIRING CAN MINIMIZE WARPAGE.
•There is no substitute for dry hard wood. Wood requires 6 months to a year to air dry to 25% moisture content or less.
•Don't throw heavy, wet wood into your Jensen, it could crack the firebox and bricks.
•Treat your furnace with the proper respect and it will reward you with much comfort, and a lifetime of central heat.
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