M1104, M1105, M1106
Changing Grinding
Wheels
Before installing any grinding wheel you must check the structural integrity by performing a “ring test.” Hang the wheel on a string, then lightly tap the rim of the wheel with a piece of wood such as the handle of a hammer. The wheel should have a ringing or harmonic type of sound. If the wheel responds with a dull thud it may indicate that the wheel has cracks. Do not use a wheel that is suspected of having cracks, or if there are visual chips, nicks or dents in the wheel surface. This damage can lead to wheel failure, causing the wheel to fly apart at operating speed.
Do not use a wheel that is suspected of having cracks, or if there are visual chips, nicks or dents in the wheel surface. This damage can lead to wheel failure where the wheel flies apart at operating speed. Always be sure to use a wheel which is rated for 3450 RPM or greater.
To change a grinding wheel, do these steps:
1.DISCONNECT THE GRINDER FROM POWER!
2.Disassemble grinder to the level shown in Figure 8.
3.Hold the wheel from turning, and remove the arbor nut which holds the wheel on.
Note: The arbor shaft and nut on the left hand side of the grinder is a left hand thread, so loosening it will require turning it clockwise.
4.Install the new wheel in the order shown in Figure 8 and tighten the arbor nut snugly, but do not over tighten or you will crack the wheel.
5.Run a new wheel for at least 1 minute while stand- ing clear of the line of rotation. If a wheel does have defects it will generally fail as soon as it gets up to full speed.
Figure 8. Grinding wheel access.
NEVER assemble a grinding wheel on the arbor without paper or fiber discs between the wheel and the flange. Omitting the discs can put uneven stress on the wheel causing it to crack and possibly fly apart. ALWAYS “ring test” a wheel before assembly to make certain it has no cracks or flaws.
OPERATIONS
