Wright Manufacturing Mower Belt Tension Adjustment, How To Bleed Air From The Hydraulic System

only when the hydraulic motor supports are in the rearward position and vice versa. See the section above, "Hydraulic Motor Support Adjustment".

Use the higher holes for the anti-tip roller for motor supports in highest holes in tractor frame, setting "a" above.

Use the lower holes for the anti-tip roller for motor supports in middle or lowest holes in tractor frame, settings "b" or "c" above.

Adjust the front caster arms at their respec- tive support brackets equally in one of the seven settings up or down 0.25" each through a 1.5" total range.

a. This should be done with two shims (or "C" spacers) on the bottom and one shim on the top of the caster support arm.

b. The front-to-rear leveling of the blades should be between level (preferred) to .25" lower at the front of the blades but never higher at the front.

c. Use the lowest holes in tractor frame for heights of 3.25" - 4.5".

Temporary Height-of-Cut Adjustment: using the caster shims (or "C" spacers) you can adjust the blades downward temporarily .5" or 1" below the original coarse setting as described above. This assumes that the blades are level with two shims (or "C" spacers) on the bottom and one shim on the top of the caster support arm. With the blades level at this assumed starting point, you should never move all of the shims to the bottom since that would make the blades higher at the front.

The angle of attack of the blades should always be level or lower at the front. This makes the blade cut the grass only once and saves fuel and wear on the whole mower. It also allows more efficient mowing and grass catching or dispersal. If you mow in an area of the country where the lawn is very thick and spongy you may have to set these two adjust- ments as they would appear on the grass and not on a hard surface due to the tires “floating” up on or “sinking” down into the lawn.

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Fine Adjustment: Adjust the blades equally in five settings up or down 0.25" each in a 1.25" total range. The shims on the blade bolts are moved from under the spindle to the top of the spindle. If possible, leave at least one shim at the top and the bottom of the spindle shaft. Using the maximums and minimums of these methods gives you a total range of 2.75" from 1.75" to 4.5" in eleven distinct settings. The factory setting is 3" when measured to a hard floor surface at the front of the deck.

Belt Tension Adjustment

The pump drive belt is self-adjusting, and nor- mally requires no adjustment, just replacement. It is spring loaded to prevent strain on the pump bearings. However, there are three holes for locating the bolt where the spring attaches for increasing the spring tension. Factory setting is the hole to the right side of the mower which is the least tension. The blade drive belts should be tightened only so that you can deflect the belt about 1/2 inch when pushing 8 lbs. with your thumb. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN OR THE SPINDLE AND IDLER BEARINGS WILL WEAR PREMATURELY OR YOU COULD DAMAGE THE ENGINE BEARINGS. This adjustment should be checked at forty (40) hour intervals except new belts should be checked every four

(4)hours for the first twenty (20) hours. A loose belt will not cut grass, will run hot and wear prematurely.

How To Move The Mower If The En- gine Won’t Start

Rotate both of the manual “dump” valve levers on the top of each hydraulic pump about 1/2 turn counterclockwise. Tighten the valves again before starting the mower again.

How To Bleed Air From The Hydraulic System

When any of the hydraulic parts are disconnected or removed or when the oil is changed, air must be bled from the system. Disconnect the small hose line from each of the pumps going to the oil filter. When oil starts to flow without bubbles from end of hose, plug the hose. When oil starts to flow without bubbles from the disconnected open port on the pump, reconnect hose to pump. Set the