Mower Cutting Blades, Parking the Mower

c.Make sure that the speed control pedal is in the neutral position.

d.Turn the electric blade clutch switch “Off”.

e.Push the throttle control to a position a third of the way between slow and fast.

f.Insert the key in the ignition and start switch and turn the switch to “On”.

g.Gasoline Engine: If the engine is cold, push the choke to the on position.

Note: E.F.I. Tanks do not have a choke control.

h.Turn the ignition key in a clockwise direction to the “Start” position until the engine starts.

Note: Do not hold the key in the “Start” position for more than 10 seconds or you may damage the starter. If the engine does not start in this time, wait about 30 seconds and try again.

i.Gasoline Engine: Once the engine starts, push the choke on halfway and as the engine warms, push the choke off all the way.

4.Operating the Mower: Operating a zero-turning- radius synchro-steer mower is like operating a trac- tor-type riding mower. The zero-turning-radius syn- chro-steer mower is much more maneuverable and much less fatiguing to operate. However, getting used to the control of the zero-turning-radius mower takes some practice. We strongly recommend that you locate a “test area” where you can operate the mower for about 30 minutes without being dis- turbed.

a.Get into the operator’s seat.

b.Start the engine.

c.Use the hydraulic valve lever to raise the mowing deck to the transport position. Make sure the blade clutch switch is off.

d.After the engine has warmed, adjust the throttle to the fast position.

e.Release the parking brake.

f.To go forward, depress the forward speed control pedal slightly and the mower will slowly move forward. The farther you depress the pedal, the faster the mower will go forward.

g.To back up, depress the speed control pedal slightly backward and the mower will slowly move backward. The farther you move the pedal backward the faster the mower will go backward.

h.To turn, turn the steering wheel in the direction which you want to turn. The more the steering wheel is turned, the faster and more sharply you will turn. Initially, you will have to be careful to avoid turning too fast and too far.

i.After you have mastered operating the mower, use the hydraulic valve lever to lower the mow- ing deck to the cutting position (place pin in any of the 1/4” height settings) and pull on the elec- tric blade clutch switch to start the blades rotat- ing.

j.Practice mowing in straight passes. When you feel confident, slowly practice mowing around obstacles such as trees.

5.Parking the Mower:

a.Push off the electric blade clutch switch.

b.Use the hydraulic valve lever to raise the mowing deck to the transport position.

c.Drive the mower to the cleanup or storage area.

d.Move the throttle to slow.

e.Take your foot off the speed control pedal.

f.Set the parking brake.

g.Turn off the ignition switch and take the key from the switch.

h.Close the fuel shutoff valves.

E.Mower Cutting Blades

The blades normally “factory installed” on a mower afford the best grass cutting performance on the majority of grasses and mowing conditions; however, there will be occasions whereby the grass type, stage of grass growth, soil condi- tions, and weather conditions will require different cutting blade types. Since the mower decks are designed so that over-lap of the cutting blades generally exceed 1.5”, there is no need for orientation of one cutting blade to an adjacent blade (I.E., the blades do not need to be “timed” nor syn- chronized).

Hi-lift- These are generally the best cutting blades for most grasses and mowing conditions. These blades will provide extra “lift” for the thinner leaf grasses, will handle lush grasses, and will provide maximum grass and debris dis- charge. These blades are generally required for material col- lection systems. More horsepower is required for these blades when compared to others, and they generally produce the highest noise levels.

Medium-lift- These blades require less horsepower than the hi-lift, and they generally work well in wider leaf grasses and some mulch applications.

Low-lift- These blades require less horsepower than hi-lift and medium-lift blades, and they generally work best with wide leaf grasses, sparse grass growth, and sandy soil condi- tions. They generally produce the lowest noise levels. Bahia blades are configured without offset, and with a maximum amount of sharpened cutting edge.

Mulch- These blades are generally designed for use in cut- ting decks equipped with mulch baffles. The shape of the blade generally produces higher turbulence in order that the grass can be repeatedly cut and re-cut into smaller pieces. These blades generally require more horsepower than other blades. Mulch blades work best when the grasses are cut at the highest levels, minimal lengths of grasses are removed, and grass conditions are generally dry.