Adjusting the Blade to Shoe
The shoe has been adjusted at the factory to a 90 degree setting. Inspect the saw regularly to make sure the blade is 90 degrees to the shoe.
1.Remove battery pack.
2.Set the bevel pointer to zero.
3.To make sure the blade is 90 degrees to the shoe, place saw on the blade side and retract lower guard. Place a square against the blade and shoe to inspect the degree setting.
4. To adjust the degree setting, loosen the bevel adjusting knob. Turn the
bevel adjustment screw
in or out until the blade is 
at a 90 degree angle with the shoe.
5. Tighten the bevel adjust- 
ing knob securely. 
Bevel
Adjustment
Screw
2.Line up the sight line with your cutting line. Posi- tion your arms and body to resist KICKBACK.
3.To start the saw, push the
4.While cutting, keep the shoe flat against the workpiece and maintain a firm grip (Fig. 5). Do not force the saw through the workpiece. Forcing a saw can cause KICKBACK.
APPLICATIONS
Cutting Large Panels
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without leveling and properly supporting the workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing
KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece, not through the supports.
OPERATION
WARNING Always remove battery pack before changing or removing acces- sories. Only use accessories specifically recommended for this tool. Others may be hazardous.
WARNING To reduce the risk of injury, keep hands away from the blade and other moving parts. Always wear safety goggles or glasses with side shields. Use only specifi- cally recommended accessories. Others may be hazardous.
Causes and Operator Prevention of KICKBACK: KICKBACK is a sudden reaction to a pinched, bound or misaligned saw blade, causing an un- controlled saw to lift up and out of the workpiece toward the operator.
When the blade is pinched or bound tightly by the kerf, or cutting slot, closing down, the blade stalls and the motor reaction drives the unit rapidly back toward the operator.
If the blade becomes twisted or misaligned in the cut, the teeth at the back edge of the blade can dig into the top surface of the wood causing the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back toward operator. KICKBACK is the result of tool misuse and/or incorrect operating procedures or conditions and can be avoided by taking proper precautions as given below:
•Maintain a firm grip with both hands on the saw and position your arms to resist kickback forces. Position your body to either side of the blade, but not in line with the blade. Kickback could cause the saw to jump backwards, but kick- back forces can be controlled by the operator, if proper precautions are taken.
•When blade is binding, or when interrupting a cut for any reason, release the trigger and hold the saw motionless in the material until the blade comes to a complete stop. Never attempt to remove the saw from the work or pull the saw backward while the blade is in motion or kickback may occur. Investigate and take corrective actions to eliminate the cause of blade binding.
•When restarting a saw in the workpiece, centre the saw blade in the kerf and check that saw teeth are not engaged into the material. If saw blade is binding, it may walk up or kickback from the workpiece as the saw is restarted.
•Support large panels to minimise the risk of blade pinching and kickback. Large panels tend to sag under their own weight. Supports must be placed under the panel on both sides, near the line of cut and near the edge of the panel.
•Do not use dull or damaged blades. Unsharpened or improperly set blades produce narrow kerf caus- ing excessive friction, blade binding and kickback.
•Blade depth and bevel adjusting locking levers must be tight and secure before making cut. If blade adjustment shifts while cutting, it may cause binding and kickback.
•Use extra caution when sawing into existing walls or other blind areas. The protruding blade may cut objects that can cause kickback.
•Set the depth of cut for no more than 1/8" to 1/4" greater than the thickness of the stock. The less blade exposed, the less chance of bind- ing and KICKBACK. Before cutting, be sure depth and bevel adjustments are tight.
•Be cautious of pitchy, knotty, wet or warped stock. These are most likely to create pinching conditions and possible KICKBACK. Do not rip warped lumber. Avoid cutting nails.
•Use a rip fence or edge guide when ripping. Guides improve control and reduce blade binding.
•Stay alert. Any distraction can cause twisting or binding. Repetitive cuts may lull the user into careless movements.
General Operation
Always clamp the workpiece securely on a saw horse or bench. See “APPLICATIONS” for the cor- rect way to support your work in different situations.
1.Draw a cutting line. Place the front of the shoe on the edge of the workpiece without making blade contact. Hold the handle with one hand and the front handle with the other (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4 |
5.If making a partial cut, restarting in
6.If the saw binds and stalls, maintain a firm grip and release the trigger immediately. Hold the saw motionless in the workpiece until the blade comes to a complete stop.
7.After finishing a cut, be sure the lower guard closes and the blade comes to a complete stop before setting the saw down.
Electric Brake
The electric brake engages when the trigger is released, causing the blade to stop and allowing you to proceed with your work. Generally, the saw blade stops within two seconds. However, there may be a delay between the time you release the trigger and when the brake engages. Occasionally the brake may miss completely. If the brake misses frequently, the saw needs servicing by an autho- rized MILWAUKEE service facility. The brake is not a substitute for the guard, and you must always wait for the blade to stop completely before removing the saw from the workpiece.
Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
•Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard object such as a nail or stone, dulling teeth on one side. The blade tends to cut to the side with the sharpest teeth.
•Shoe is out of line or bent
•Blade is bent
•Rip fence or guide is not being used
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from friction:
•Blade is dull
•Blade is on backwards
•Blade is bent
•Blade is dirty
•Workpiece is not properly supported
•Incorrect blade is being used
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and lock the setting by tightening the rip fence adjusting knob.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack 1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood
WARNING To reduce the risk of elec- tric shock, check work area for hidden pipes and wires before making pocket cuts.
Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the work- piece when it can not be cut from an edge. We recommend using a Sawzall® reciprocating saw or jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circular saw to make a pocket cut, USE EX- TREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the saw.
1.Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, firmly fixing the front of the shoe on the workpiece (Fig. 7). The blade should be just above cutting line, but not touching it. Raise the lower guard using the lower guard lever.
6 | 7 |