VEE Grooves, Long Cuts, Cove Cuts | Delta 46-756, 46-755X specs

VEE GROOVES

Cutting the vee groove demands much the same technique as the bead, except the skew is hinged straight into the work without rotation (Fig. 51). Only one-half of the vee is made at a time, and one, two, or more cuts may be needed on each side to obtain the desired shape. As in all cutting with the skew, the bevel next to the cut must be used as a fulcrum. Be careful not to allow full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a run. Vee grooves can also be made with the toe of the skew, in the same manner as squaring an end.

LONG CUTS

Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in making the finishing cut is shown in Figs. 52. The gouge is turned on the tool rest so that it will be inclined in the direction that it will move. The grind is tangent to the work, and the center point of the cutting edge is the contact point with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and around the end of the curve, the handle is gradually raised and swiveled to the right (Fig. 53) in order to maintain the tangency between the grind and the surface being cut .

Figs. 54 and 55 show the cutting of a long taper with a skew. The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder only at the start of the cut. The starting cut should be made with the heel (Fig. 54) to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As the tool moves down the work, the chisel can be pulled back to allow the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However, the full taper can be made with the heel. Be careful not to cut too deeply at the center of the taper. The direction of cutting is always downhill.

COVE CUTS

Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is the most difficult to master. This cut is made with the gouge, where the size of the tool depends on the size of the cut. Push the gouge directly into the work to remove the surplus stock (Fig.56).

Fig. 51

Fig. 52

Fig. 53

Fig. 54

Fig. 55

Fig. 56