Troubleshooting Procedures
Power Supply
If no part of the cooktop operates or only part of it operates, the cause may be a problem in the power supply.
1.Verify supply circuit breakers or fuses are not tripped. Check rating.
2.Disconnect power source. Check terminals at terminal block for tightness.
3.Verify cooktop service wires are properly connected. Be sure wires are in good condition. Check for continuity with an ohmmeter.
Internal Wiring
1.Disconnect power from cooktop.
2.Place one ohmmeter lead at terminal block. Place other lead at the line terminal of the non−functioning parts control. Meter should indicate continuity.
Use the appropriate wiring diagram to repeat this procedure from the output of the control to the next point until each wire section is checked. Often a visual check of the wiring will determine where a wiring fault is.
Surface Control
Power Connection
1.Refer to schematic diagrams for assistance in testing voltages in and out of control.
2.Connect a voltmeter to the element receptacle or the terminals H1 and H2 of the surface control.
3.Turn control to LOW setting and allow it to cycle approximately two minutes. Time the OFF and ON cycle of the control and compare these to the following table.
SETTING | APPROXIMATE SECONDS | |
TIME | ON | OFF |
LOW | 3 | 20 |
MED | 5 | 7 |
HIGH | Constant | 0 |
4.Replace the control if it is not cycling properly. Calibration is not possible.
A malfunction in the internal switching may fuse the cycling contacts. This causes the heating element to operate at full power on all control settings.
1.Disconnect power from cooktop.
2.Connect voltmeter test lead to H2 and L2 terminals.
3.Connect appliance to power source.
4.Set control to MED. Meter should indicate 240 VAC volts. After 10 to 15 seconds, contacts should cycle open and indicate 0 VAC.
Infinite Switch Surface Controls
Power Disconnected
All controls may be checked for continuity using the schematic diagrams in this manual. When checking continuity of suspected control contacts, disconnect terminals to avoid false readings through other components.
The most common type of failures encountered with an infinite switch are given in subsequent paragraphs. Replace failed surface control.
The bimetal heater burns open which causes the cycling contacts to remain closed. The heating element would be on full power at all control settings.
1.Disconnect power from cooktop. Disconnect wire terminals from switch terminals H1 and H2.
2.Connect ohmmeter test leads to H1 and H2 terminals. The meter indicates no continuity if heater
is open. The heater resistance should be approximately 15 KΩ.
The internal switching may fail causing the element or indicator light to be on constantly or not at all.
1.Disconnect power from cooktop.
2.Disconnect wire terminals from all switch terminals.
3.Test the small halogen ring by connecting ohmmeter to L2 and H2. Set control to any setting. Meter should indicate continuity. Turn control OFF. Meter should indicate no continuity.
4.Test the large halogen by connecting ohmmeter leads to L1 and H2. Turn control to OFF. Meter should indicate no continuity.
Functional Test
1.Apply power to cooktop. The halogen element should cycle according to the position of the switch as listed:
Position | % of “ON” time |
1 | 10% |
2 | 20% |
3 | 30% |
4 | 40% |
5 | 50% |
6 | 60% |
7 | 70% |
8 | 80% |
9 | 90% |
10 | 100% |
Approximate only, time varies between units.
2.After cooktop cycles for one minute, take ON/OFF readings over a five minute period to determine whether the switch is cycling properly. If the switch is not cycling properly with proper voltage applied, replace the switch.
NOTE: If the switch is not supplied with proper voltage (240 VAC), the cycling time will be affected. With less than 240 VAC, the cycling time will be longer. With more than 240 VAC, the cycling times will be shorter.
RS2420002 Rev. 5 | 14 |
