Trace round the outer edge of the template and cut neatly just inside the line.
To improve the mechanical integrity of the wall and reduce the likelihood of rattles, we recommend you apply a bead of wood glue or mastic along the joints between the back of the plasterboard and the studs in the vicinity if the speaker.
Run the cable to the aperture, allowing enough length to comfortably connect the speaker, but not too much, as the excess may rattle against the structure.
New drywall construction
The speaker can be installed once the wall is completed in the same manner as retrofitting, but it is easier to position and cut the hole if the optional
Staple or nail the PMK to the studs as described in the instructions with the kit. Run the cable and secure it to the fixing point on the PMK. Allow enough length to comfortably connect the speaker, but not too much, as the excess may rattle against the structure.
Results are affected by how well the plasterboard is attached to the studs and we recommend gluing as well as screwing or nailing the panels to the studs in the vicinity of the speaker.
Once the board is fitted, the inner flange of the PMK serves as a guide for a hole router or saw.
If extra acoustic isolation to adjoining rooms is required or some protection against the spread of fire, use the optional back box in place of the PMK. Follow the instructions with the back box for fitting and running the cable.
When fitting the plasterboard, use mastic between the sheets and the back box to avoid rattles. Rout or saw out the speaker aperture using the backbox flange as a guide. Depending on the diameter of the router, you may need to square off the corners with a saw.
Solid wall construction
In order for the bass performance not to be compromised, the speaker requires a cavity volume of at least 20 litres (0.7 cu ft). This means that, in a standard 10cm (4 in) thick wall, the cavity will extend beyond the boundaries of the speaker frame. It is possible to provide this cavity simply by using a lintel, covering the hole with plasterboard and fitting the speaker as described above for retrofitting into a drywall. (figure 5) However, the back box provides a useful means of defining the minimum volume required.
Follow the instructions with the back box for fitting and running the cable. If using a wet plaster finishing method, first paint a layer of PVA adhesive onto the back box before plastering to avoid rattles as a result of the plaster shrinking away from the back box as it dries.
If using plasterboard, stick the sheets to the surfaces of the back box using flexible mastic. Rout out the aperture using the
flange as a guide. Depending on the diameter of the router, you may need to square off the corners with a saw.
In all cases, we recommend not using cement or mortar to fix the back box into the brick or blockwork. rattles are best avoided by using flexible mastic and wedges. (figure 6)
Damping the cavity
Fill the wall cavity or back box, but not the space immediately behind the speaker, with unlined fibreglass or mineral wool matting. The packing density should be just enough to comfortably prevent the material from dropping or sagging over time. In an open wall cavity, fill to a distance of at least 30cm (1 ft) above and below the speaker. (figure 7)
In the ceiling, drape the matting at the back of the ceiling board, covering the aperture and extending at least 30cm (1 ft) around the speaker into open void. (figure 8)
IMPORTANT: Ensure that the materials you use meet local fire and safety regulations.
Fitting the speaker
All connections should be made with the equipment switched off.
With the grille removed, position the wall frame in the aperture and screw in the
6 screws visible from the front. (figure 9) These screws automatically swing out clamping dogs that locate behind the mounting surface. Ensure that they have located properly before fully tightening the screws. A certain amount of flexing of the frame is allowed to take up unevenness in the mounting surface, but do not overtighten the screws as excessive distortion of the speaker frame may result.
If required, the wall frame and grille mesh should be painted at this stage, before fitting the baffle. See also the section “Customising” below.
Connect the signal cable to the gold plated spring loaded input terminals on the crossover and the trigger cable, if used, to the plastic spring terminals. Ensure the correct polarity is observed in both cases. (figure 10)
There are 2 switches on the crossover. One is marked ‘dipole’ and ‘monopole’. In the ‘dipole’ position, the speaker is in dipole mode, whatever the status of the 12V trigger. In the ‘monopole’ position, the speaker is in monopole mode unless 12V is applied to the trigger input, when the speaker becomes dipole.
The second switch is marked ‘A’ and ‘B’. When viewed from the front, the positive dipole lobe goes to the right of the speaker when the switch is at ‘A’ and to the left when the switch is at ‘B’. (figure 11). Set the lobes as shown in figure 12, according to the position of the speaker.
Fit the baffle into the wall frame using the 6 screws provided. (figure 13)
Fit the grille mesh. If the slot width has become distorted by overtightening the wall frame clamps, it will be necessary to
remove the baffle, loosen the clamps and
Fine tuning
The choice of monopole or dipole mode may depend on the type of programme being played, the speaker’s position in the installation and, of course, personal preference.
6.1and 7.1 installations are sometimes set to monopole, even if the side speakers are set to dipole, but dipole all round is also an option. Experiment to find the best settings for your situation.
The 12V trigger option may be used to automatically set different modes for different types of programme. Some processors can detect whether the programme being played is music or movie and assign a trigger accordingly. Some others can assign a trigger to the input socket being used and you may wish to use a different player for music than that used for movies.
Customising
The frame has a paintable white
Before painting the grille, peel off the fabric scrim from the back, otherwise the pores will get clogged and the sound will be impaired. If the scrim does not stay in place properly when replaced, spray the back of the grille mesh (NOT the scrim) with a light coating of 3M SprayMount adhesive or similar.
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