DeWalt DW717 instruction manual Crosscuts, Bevel Cuts, Quality of CUT

tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the workpiece is engaged.

NOTE: Although this saw will cut wood and many non-ferrous materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. DO NOT CUT FERROUS (IRON AND

STEEL) MATERIALS OR MASONRY WITH THIS SAW. Do not use any abrasive blades.

CROSSCUTS

Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence. When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle. A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set and lock the miter arm at zero, hold the wood firmly on the table and against the fence. With the rail lock knob tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch shown in Figure 4.

When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

When cutting anything larger than 4.4" (111.8 mm) [3" (76.2 mm) 45º miter] use an out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob loosened. Pull the saw out, toward you, lower the saw head down toward the workpiece, and slowly push the saw back to complete the cut. Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to the workpiece.

CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of workpiece damage and personal injury.

NOTE: The rail lock knob shown in Figure 4 must be loose to allow the saw to slide along its rails.

FIG. 11 FIG. 13A

PROPER CUT

FIG. 12 FIG. 13B

IMPROPER CUTS

English

Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45º for making corners, but can be set anywhere from left or right. Make the cut as described above.

When cutting wider workpieces wider than a 2 x 6 that are shorter in length, always place the longer side against the fence (Fig. 12).

To cut through an existing pencil line on a piece of wood, match the angle as close as possible. Cut the wood a little too long and measure from the pencil line to the cut edge to determine which direction to adjust the miter angle and recut. This will take some practice, but it is a commonly used technique.

BEVEL CUTS

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at an angle to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel lock handle, lift the bevel latch lever, Figure 4, and move the saw to the left or right as desired. (It is necessary

to move the fence to allow clearance). Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp handle firmly.

Bevel angles can be set from 48º right to 48º left and can be cut with the miter arm set between 50º right or 60º left. At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob several turns and slide the fence out.

QUALITY OF CUT

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a

slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results. Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.

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