A camber gauge (available at your local hobby shop) can be a useful tool for alignment setting.
To achieve a good starting point for the slipper clutch, tighten the slipper clutch adjusting nut clockwise until the slipper clutch adjusting spring fully collapses (do not over tighten), and then turn the slipper clutch nut counter- clockwise ¾ to 1 turn.
TUNING ADJUSTMENTS
Static Camber Adjustment
The wheels can be set to have either positive or negative camber (see illustration below). The camber angle changes as the wheel moves up and down through its range of travel. Static camber
is the camber angle at the wheel when the vehicle is set at its normal, stationary ride height.
The suspension pivot balls located in the axle carriers adjust the static camber. Camber is factory-set at negative
2-degrees. To adjust static camber, insert the supplied 2mm hex wrench into the pivot ball (compressing the suspension until the arms are parallel to the ground will allow for easier hex wrench
engagement). Negative camber can be increased by unthreading the lower pivot ball. Zero camber or positive camber (not recommended) can be achieved by unthreading the upper pivot ball. Note that camber changes will also effect the toe angle of the wheel being adjusted.
Static Camber Base Factory Settings
Front: 2-degree negative camber each side
Rear: 2-degree negative camber each side
Negative camber
Wheels lean in, toward chassis
Positive camber
Wheels lean out, away from chassis
Adjusting Toe-In
Toe-in refers to the angle of the front and rear wheels as viewed from above (see the diagram below). The handling of your model can be adjusted by altering the front and rear toe angles.
Front Toe Adjustment: The toe-in of your model’s front wheels can be adjusted by threading the front pivot balls in or out of the suspension arms. Threading the upper and lower pivot balls into the arms (by
turning them clockwise) willToe-inincrease toe-in. Threading the pivot balls
out of the arms (by turning them counter- clockwise) will reduce toe-in. Front toe-in increases straight line stability and will help the model to self-correct to a straight path when transitioning from turns to straight- aways. Decreasing front toe-in or using toe-out will reduce straight-line stability, but will make the model’s handling feel more aggressive when initiating a turn.
Rear Toe Adjustment: Rear toe-in is adjusted in the same way as front toe-in, by adjusting the depth of the pivot balls in the arms. Increasing rear toe-in will add stability to the model and make the model handle less aggressively (to use racing terminology, the model will have “less steering”). Reducing toe-in will “loosen” the rear of the model, making it more likely to spin-out (oversteer). Rear toe-out is not recommended, as it will cause erratic handling.
For gymkhana-style driving, 1-2 degrees of front and rear toe-in is recommended. The stock settings for your model are 1-degree front toe-in and 1.5 degrees rear toe-in.
For maximum adjustability, Traxxas offers threaded aluminum toe links (Part #7038X) for your model.
