Shimming Table | Blade Lead |
To ensure accuracy when cutting stacked cuts or circles, the table should also be 90û to the back of the blade as shown in Figure 40. If you should find that the table is not perpendicular to the back of the blade, the table will need to be shimmed.
Figure 40. Squaring table to blade back.
To shim the table:
1.Make sure that the blade is tracking properly and that it is correctly tensioned.
2.Unplug the bandsaw!
3.Loosen the trunnion bolts that secure the trunnions to the table.
4.Place shim stock between the table and the two trunnions to shim the table in the desired direction. Another way to shim the table is to add washers between the table and the trun- nion. Electrical washers are a good choice for this procedure because they are very thin and will allow for fine adjustment.
5.Follow the ÒAligning Miter SlotÓ instructions in Section 4: Set Up to complete this proce- dure.
Most bandsaw blades will not appear to cut straight when using the fence or miter gauge. This is called Òlead.Ó (See Figure 41.) Lead occurs (1) if the blade tension is incorrect, (2) if the teeth are dull on one side, or (3) if the teeth are set heavier on one side of the blade than the other.
Figure 41. Blade leading away from line of cut.
If you notice that your blade is not cutting straight (i.e. leading) while using the fence or miter gauge:
1.Check that the miter slot or fence is parallel to the blade line.
2.Check that you have proper blade tension. If the blade tension is correct and it is not con- venient to replace the blade, compensate for lead by skewing the fence or adjusting the table.
To skew your fence:
1.Cut a piece of scrap wood approximately 3Ú4" thick x 3" wide x 17" long. On a wide face of the board, draw a straight line parallel to the long edge.
2.Slide the fence out of the way and cut free- hand along the line. Stop at the halfway point. Turn the bandsaw off and wait for the
blade to stop.
G0555 14" Ultimate Bandsaw
