Recommended grounding method
For your personal safety, this appliance must be grounded. This appliance is equipped with a power supply cord having a 3 prong grounding plug. To minimize possible shock hazard, the cord must be plugged into a mating, 3 prong, grounding-type wall receptacle, grounded in accordance with the National Electrical Code and local codes and ordinances. If a mating wall receptacle is not available, it is the personal responsibility of the customer to have a properly grounded, 3 prong wall receptacle installed by a qualified electrician.
Water Supply Requirements
A cold water supply with water pressure of between 30 and 120 psi (207 - 827 kPa) is required to operate the ice maker. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.
Reverse Osmosis Water Supply
IMPORTANT: The pressure of the water supply coming out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the ice maker needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 - 827 kPa).
If a reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply, the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system needs to be a minimum of 40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa). The reverse osmosis system must provide 1 gal (3.79L) of water per hour to the ice maker for proper ice maker operation.
If the water pressure to the reverse osmosis system is less than
40 to 60 psi (276 - 414 kPa):
■Check to see whether the sediment filter in the reverse osmosis system is blocked. Replace the filter if necessary.
■Allow the storage tank on the reverse osmosis system to refill after heavy usage.
If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber.
Leveling
It is important for the ice maker to be level in order to work properly. Depending upon where you install the ice maker, you may need to make several adjustments to level it. You may also use the leveling legs to lower the height of the ice maker for undercounter installations.
Tools needed:
Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation.
■Carpenter’s level
■Adjustable wrench
NOTE: It is easier to adjust the leveling legs if you have another person to assist you.
1.Move the ice maker to its final location.
NOTE: If this is a built-in installation, move the ice maker as close as possible to the final location.
2.Place a carpenter’s level on top of the product to see if the ice maker is level from front to back and side to side.
3.Push up on the top front of the ice maker, and then locate the leveling screws that are on the bottom front of the ice maker.
4.Using an adjustable wrench, change the height of the legs as follows:
■Turn the leveling leg to the right to lower that side of the ice maker.
■Turn the leveling leg to the left to raise that side of the ice maker.
NOTE: The ice maker should not wobble. Use shims to add stability when needed.
5.Push up on the top rear of the ice maker and locate the leveling legs that are on the bottom rear of the ice maker.
6.Follow the instructions in Step 4 to change the height of the legs.
7.Use a carpenter’s level to recheck the ice maker to see that it is even from front to back and side to side. If the ice maker is not level, repeat steps 3 to 6. If the ice maker is level, go to the “Connect Water Supply” section.
Connect Water Supply
Read all directions thoroughly before you begin.
IMPORTANT:
■Plumbing shall be installed in accordance with the International Plumbing Code and any local codes and ordinances.
■Use copper tubing and check for leaks.
■Install copper tubing only in areas where temperatures will remain above freezing.
Tools needed:
Gather the required tools and parts before starting installation. Read and follow the instructions provided with any tools listed here.
■Flat-blade screwdriver
■⁷⁄₁₆" and ¹⁄₂" open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches
■¹⁄₄" nut driver
■¹⁄₄" drill bit
■Hand drill or electric drill properly grounded
NOTE: Your ice maker dealer has a kit available with a ¹⁄₄"
(6.35 mm) saddle-type shutoff valve, a union, and copper tubing. Before purchasing, make sure a saddle-type valve complies with your local plumbing codes. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆"
(4.76 mm) saddle valve which reduces water flow and clogs more easily.
Connecting the water line
1.Turn off main water supply. Turn on nearest faucet long enough to clear line of water.
2.Find a ¹⁄₂" (12.70 mm) to 1¹⁄₄" (3.18 cm) vertical cold water pipe near the ice maker.
NOTE: Horizontal pipe will work, but the following procedure
must be followed: Drill on the top side of the pipe, not the bottom. This will help keep water away from the drill. This also keeps normal sediment from collecting in the valve.
3.Using a grounded drill, drill a ¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm) hole in the cold water pipe you have selected.
4.Fasten shutoff valve to cold water pipe with pipe clamp. Be sure outlet end is solidly in the ¹⁄₄" (6.35 mm) drilled hole in the water pipe and that washer is under the pipe clamp. Tighten packing nut. Tighten the pipe clamp screws carefully and evenly so washer makes a watertight seal. Do not overtighten the pipe clamp or you may crush cold water pipe if it is soft copper tubing. Do not use a piercing-type or ³⁄₁₆" (4.76 mm) saddle-type valve which reduces water flow and clogs more easily.