3
This will depend on the flue’s ability to provide a consistent negative pressure. There is no substitute for a warm, efficient chimney/pipe system. If the flue gases cool too quickly, draft will slow and combustion will not be as efficient. Do not skimp on the flue system. A good rule of thumb on chimney height is a minimum of 12’ from the stove top to termination. Location of chimney and other factors may require more or less chimney height. In areas of high winds or draft inversions, a suitable wind-directional or vacuum cap may be needed.
An insulated chimney is a must in order to maintain the heat inside the chimney for proper flow of gases. For model OC-10, use a class “A”, 6” diameter, all-fuel insulated chimney that has been tested to U.L. HT103 when passing through combustibles. For models OC-7 and OC-8, a 4”, 5”, or 6” diameter Class “A” insulated chimney or an approved 4” diameter Class “L” (pellet vent) chimney is approved. As a general rule, smaller diameter flues are better for draft and efficiency. The stove pipe connector may be single-wall black pipe with tight fitting joints (mobile home connectors must be double-wall, see Section 1), and must be securely fastened at all joints with 3 sheet metal screws. Fasten connector pipe to the flue collar on the stove and the ceiling box/wall thimble with screws as well. The Oil Classic may also be connected to a masonry chimney, but it is recommended that it be lined with a stainless steel liner and insulated as well. Use and install all piping according to the manufacturers listed clearances.
Certain atmospheric conditions such as high winds will cause a change (increase) in the negative pressure inside the flue and thus inside the stove. To compensate for this, your stove has a draft or flue stabilizer which is a barometric damper located at the rear back of your stove. Upon installation of the stove and after lighting and warm-up, the rear cover must be removed and the draft stabilizer adjusted. Its purpose is to allow more or less air to travel into the flue to compensate for a change in the flue draft. Adjustment of the draft stabilizer will be discussed in Section 4.
SECTION 3
Fuel tank installation and fuel line connections
OIL:
Your Kuma Oil Classic comes with a carburetor set for an average of a 2.35 cc. viscosity rating. You should be able to burn either #1 or #2 fuel with adjustments to the carburetor. Bio-diesel may also be successfully burned in the Oil Classic. Due consideration to fuel grades should be noted. #1 Fuel oil, K-1, or kerosene will burn much cleaner than #2 fuel and requires less maintenance. #2 fuel or diesel grades of fuel are fine to burn, however there are combustibles present in # 2 fuel that become solids when they are burned, thereby requiring more frequent cleaning of the decoker and burner.
TANK:
The fuel tank should be clean (second-hand tanks not recommended), so a new tank is advised. Steel tanks require more maintenance such as painting to prevent rust. A polyethylene tank is preferred as it will never rot or rust, and is basically maintenance-free. A tank with a larger capacity will require less fillings as well as an opportunity to obtain better pricing for fuel oil in greater quantities. Avoid placing the tank in direct sunlight. Warm tanks will condense moisture which will fall to the bottom of your tank where it will need to be drained to prevent valve damage and/or freezing and stopping oil flow. Also, due consideration should be given to accessibility to the tank for delivery trucks.
The ideal tank should have two bottom-end outlets: one for fuel supply to the stove, and one to drain off any water and dirt. To be able to do this, the tank must be installed with a “fall” of at least 1/4” per foot of tank length. The fuel supply will come from the high end of the tank and the lower end will be used for draining condensation and impurities. If the tank has only one outlet, be sure to tip the tank away from the outlet slightly, as described above. Brick or cement foundation for the tank is advised.
