■Popping - contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially during initial
■Water running - may be heard when water melts during the defrost cycle and runs into the drain pan
■Creaking/Cracking - occurs as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold.
The doors will not close completely
■Door blocked open? Move food packages away from door.
■Bin or shelf in the way? Push bin or shelf back in the correct position.
The doors are difficult to open
WARNING
Explosion Hazard
Use nonflammable cleaner.
Failure to do so can result in death, explosion, or fire.
■Are the gaskets dirty or sticky? Clean gaskets with mild soap and warm water.
The lights do not work
■Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See “Changing the Light Bulbs.”
■Is the dispenser light set to OFF? On some models, the dispenser light will operate only when a dispenser lever/pad is pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on continuously, set the dispenser light to ON, or (on some models) NIGHT LIGHT or AUTO or HALF or DIM. See “Water and Ice Dispensers.”
■Is the dispenser light set to NIGHT LIGHT or AUTO? On some models, if the dispenser is set to the NIGHT LIGHT or AUTO mode, be sure the dispenser light sensor is not blocked. See “Water and Ice Dispensers.”
Temperature and Moisture
Temperature is too warm
■New installation? Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely.
■Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows warm air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed.
■Large load of food added? Allow several hours for refrigerator to return to normal temperature.
■Controls set correctly for the surrounding conditions? Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check temperature in 24 hours. See “Using the Controls.”
There is interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal.
■Humid room? Contributes to moisture buildup.
■Door(s) opened often or left open? Allows humid air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed.
Ice and Water
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice
■Refrigerator connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve turned on? Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open.
■Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
■Ice maker turned on? Make sure wire shutoff arm or switch (depending on model) is in the ON position.
■New installation? Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 72 hours for full ice production.
■Large amount of ice recently removed? Allow 24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
■Ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm? Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil.
■Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure. See “Water Supply Requirements.”
The ice cubes are hollow or small
NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure.
■Water shutoff valve not fully open? Turn the water shutoff valve fully open.
■Kink in the water source line? A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line.
■Reverse osmosis water filtration system connected to your cold water supply? This can decrease water pressure. See “Water Supply Requirements.”
■Questions remain regarding water pressure? Call a licensed, qualified plumber.
10
