14
DOOR REMOVAL (1100C ONLY)
1.Remove cast top.
2.Pull pin from top door hinge. It is important to hold the door while removing the pin. Pivot the door to clear the top door hinge. Lift the door off of the lower pin. Do not pivot the door any further than necessary.
WOOD PILE
MAINTENANCE
Burn only dry, clean unpainted wood that has been seasoned. It produces more heat and less soot or creosote. Freshly cut wood contains about 50% moisture while after proper sea- soning only about 20% of the water remains. As wood is burned, this water boils off consuming energy that should be used in heating. The wetter the wood, the less heat is given off and the more creosote is produced.
Both hardwood and softwood burn equally well in this stove but hardwood is denser, will weigh more per cord and burn a little slower and longer. Firewood should be split, stacked in a manner that air can get to all parts of it and covered in early spring to be ready for burning that fall. Dry firewood has cracks in the end grain. Cut the wood so that it will fit horizontally, front to back, making for easier loading and less of a likelihood that the wood will roll onto the glass. Ideal lengths of wood are approximately 12" for EPA 1100, 1100C, 1100L, 1150 and 1101, 16 1/2" for EPA 1400, 1400L and 1401, and 21" for EPA 1900.
DO'S
1.Build a hot fire
2.Use only dry wood.
3.Several pieces of medium sized wood are better than a few big pieces.
4.Clean chimney regularly.
5.Refuel frequently using medium sized wood.
6."Fine Tune" the air settings for optimum performance.
DON'TS
1.Take ash out immediately. Let it accumu- late to a depth of at least one inch. A good ash layer provides for a longer lasting and better burning fire.
2.Burn wet wood.
3.Close the door too soon or damper down too quickly.
4.Burn one large log rather than two or three smaller, more reasonably sized logs.
5.Burn at continually "low setting", if glass door is constantly blackened. This means the firebox temperature is too low.
