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Installation Guide continued
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❏Required Tools
You'll need a screwdriver, a 1.5 volt AA battery, and the following:
12 V DC | ELECTRICAL |
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TEST BULB | TAPE | PLIERS |
plug (leaving the leads as long as possible) so that you can work with individual leads.
Turn the ignition on to the accessory position, and ground one lead of the test bulb to the chassis.
❏Dashboard Specifications
THICKNESS
MIN. 3/16" (4.75 mm)
MAX. 7/32" (5.56 mm)
❏Identify All Leads
The first step in installation is to identify all the car wires you’ll use when hooking up your sound system.
As you identify each wire, we suggest that you label it using masking tape and a permanent marker. This will help avoid confusion when making connections later.
Note: Do not connect the power connector to the stereo unit until you have made all connections. If there are no plastic caps on the stereo hooking wires, insulate all exposed leads with electrical tape until you are ready to use them. Identify the leads as follows.
Power Lead
If your car has a radio or is
Touch the other lead of the test bulb to each of the exposed wires from the cut radio connector plug. Touch one wire at a time until you find the outlet that causes the test bulb to light.
Now turn the ignition off and then on. If the bulb also turns off and on, that outlet is the car power lead.
If your car is not wired for an audio unit :
Go to the fuse block and find the fuse port for radio (RADIO), accessory (ACC), or ignition (IGN).
Battery Lead
If your stereo unit has a yellow lead, you will need to locate the car’s battery lead. Otherwise you may ignore this procedure. (The yellow battery lead provides continuous power to maintain a clock, memory storage, or other function.)
If your car has a radio or is
If your car is not wired for an audio unit :
Go to the fuse block and find the fuse port for the battery, usually marked BAT.
Speakers
Identilfy the car speaker leads. There will be two leads for each speaker, usually color coded.
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