Install R4, another 1 M ohm resistor
Install C28, 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Remember the polarity yet again.
Install C29, 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Placement.
Install C9, 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Watch your placement..
Install C2, yup, another pesky 10uF electrolytic. The lead with the band goes in the hole opposite the one marked with the “+” sign, as usual.
Install R1 and R2, both 1 M ohm resistors
Install H2, one of the three pin headers. The long pins stick up from the board and the short pins go into the board to be soldered.
Install C32, yet another 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
Install R19, 470 ohm resistor
Install H1, the other three pin header.
We’re in the home stretch now, just a few more parts to install. Take a break when you need to and then let’s get building again.
Install C1, 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Positive lead, “+” hole.
Install C31, 10uF electrolytic capacitor, and this is the last time you’ll have to hear about polarity and orientation. Refreshing, isn’t it?
Install R18, 470 ohms
Jacks, pots, switches and we’re just about ready to fire up your headphone amp.
Starting at the left and working our way to the right, let’s install J4, one of the 3.5mm stereo jacks. This part and the rest of the jacks and switches will want to sit flatly and nicely on the PC board so that the kit fits well when you go to case it up and so that you don’t have trouble plugging things in, etc. Take your time and do it right, and we’re almost finished anyway so a few extra minutes here won’t cost you much but will pay off in the end.
In the same way, install J3, another 3.5mm stereo jack. Remember when headphone jacks were all 1/4”? Now they’ve all gone over to 3.5mm. Of course some of us remember those single ear, cream colored earphones you’d get with your transistor radio. Hmmm, kind of dating myself now, huh? Ok, let’s get back to building!
Locate the DPDT switch and install it in the S1 position. Happily, I have no