PROPER FEEDING
The right feed is neither too fast nor too slow. It is the rate at which the bit is being advanced firmly and surely to produce a continuous spiral of uniform chips
There is no fixed rule. You will learn by experience.., by listening to the router motor and by feeling the progress of each cut. If at all possible, always test a cut on a scrap piece of the workpiece wood, beforehand.
SPEED SELECTION
(MODEL NOS. 315.175050 AND 315.175060 ONLY)
In general, if the material being cut is hard, the cutter size is large, or the depth of cut i_ deep (maxim um 1/8 in.), then you r router should be run at slower speeds. When these situa- tions exist, turn the variable speed control selector until the desired speed is reached.
NOTE: Carbide cutters cut at higher speeds than steel cutters and should be used when cutting very hard materials.
RATE OF FEED
IMPORTANT: The whole "secret" of professional routing and edge shaping lies in making a careful
FORCEFEEDING
Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites as it revolves. "Bigger bites" mean bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which could result in the router motor becoming overloaded.
Under extreme
Your Craftsman Router is an extremely
is very hard, knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed still more.
TOO FAST
TOO SLOW | Fig. 11 |
#
You can always detect "force feeding" by the sound of the motor. Its
TOO SLOW FEEDING
It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast enough to take a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away
In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the bit is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load on the motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM, and will have a much greater than normal tendency to bounce off the sides of the cut (especially, if the wood has a pronounced grain with hard and soft areas). As a result, the cut produced may have rippled, instead of straight sides. See Figure 11.
grasp and hold your router firmly with both hands when routing.
You can detect
pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the "wiggle" of the bit in the cut.
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