MOTOR WILL NOT RUN
1.Confirm 120V AC to the controller. Also, to verify correct polarity, check for 120 V AC between hot supply and ground.
If there is no voltage, check for a loose connection where it connects to the controller.
2.If there is 120 volts to the controller, check for loose connections or a locked rotor. If the rotor cannot be freed the motor and blower assembly must be replaced.
MOTOR RUNS, PREPURGE TIME ELAPSES BUT MAIN
FLAME NOT ESTABLISHED.
1.Check to see if main manual gas valve is open.
2.Check for a loose connection at the transformer, or a defective transformer.
3.Check for a loose connection at the gas valve.
4.Check for open pressure switches or open reset button. Check for blockage in the intake and exhaust venting or at the vent hoods. If no blockage is found, check vinyl tubing for cuts or crimps. If this tubing is damaged it must be replaced. If these steps do not eliminate the problem, replace the pressure switches.
5.Check to see if there is resistance across the igniter terminal with an OHM meter. If there is no continuity, the igniter is broken and should be replaced.
If the igniter appears to function properly, then verify that the inlet pressure is within the range shown in Table 4. The gas valve supplied on the appliance is not designed to open against a higher inlet pressure of 10.5"WC (2.59kPa) for natural gas and 14.0"WC (3.45kPa) for propane gas. At this time, also check to make sure the inlet pressure is not lower than 4.0"WC (.98kPa) for natural gas and 11.0"WC (2.74kPa) for propane gas. If the inlet pressure is not within these limits then adjust the supply pressure accordingly.
If the inlet pressure falls within the allowable limits, then verify that the manifold pressure, when the gas is fully open, with the heater running, is as called out in Table 4: that is, 4.0"WC (.98kPa) for natural gas and 10.0"WC (2.46kPa) for propane gas for the 120 and 150 models and 0"WC (0kPa) for both natural and propane gas 199 and 250 models. If the manifold pressure is not correct then adjust accordingly. See "ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE" in "OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS" sections for manifold pressure adjustment procedure.
6.If the inlet and manifold pressures are within the limits specified in step 5, then reset the appliance. Verify 24V AC at the gas valve during the three
(3) second ignition trial, after the igniter reaches operating temperature. If 24V AC at the gas valve is not seen during this period, the controller must be replaced.
If there is 24V AC at the gas valve during the four second ignition trial and the manifold pressure does not increase above 0" W.C. then verify that the manual gas control valve is in the “ON” position (see page 20). If the valve is in the “ON” position and the previous voltage and gas pressure conditions are met, then the gas valve is defective and must be replaced.
Note that a positive manifold pressure reading of approximately 1.5" (.38 kPa) W.C. is normal during the prepurge portion of the ignition cycle due to the location of the gas orifice.
MOTOR RUNS, BURNER LIGHTS MOMENTARILY,
THEN LOCKS OUT
1.Reset the appliance two more times to ensure that all of the air has been purged from the gas line.
2.If the burner lights momentarily but does not sustain ignition, verify that the inlet pressure is not greater than 10.5" WC (2.59 kPa) for natural gas and 14.0" WC (3.45 kPa) for propane gas or lower than the minimal supply pressure which is 4.0" WC (.09kPa) for natural gas and 11.0"WC (2.74 kPa) for propane gas. Also, verify that the manifold pressure is correct, that is, 4.0"WC (.98kPa) for natural gas and 10.0"WC (2.46kPa) for propane gas for the 120 and 150 models and 0"WC (0kPa) for both natural and propane gas 199 and 250 models. If the manifold pressure is not correct then adjust accordingly. See "ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE" in "OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS" sections for manifold pressure adjustment procedure.
3.Check for the reversed polarity in the supply wiring. This controller is polarity sensitive. If the hot and neutral supply wires are reversed, the controller will not sense flame. Reverse the supply wires and try to fire the unit.
NOTE: Always turn off and disconnect main supply wiring before servicing the unit.
4.Check connecting wire to the flame sensor. Verify that the flame sensor has not been damaged in any way.
5.Verify that the air supply is adequate. The air inlet screen or blower wheel may be restricted. Also, check the installation for proper ventilation. See
AIR REQUIREMENTS.
6.Check the venting system for the correct sizing, excess or insufficient.
See VENTING.
7.Check for maximum inlet pressure of 10.5"WC (2.59 kPa) for natural gas and 14.0"WC (3.45 kPa) for propane gas and the manifold pressure which is 4.0"WC (.98 kPa) for natural gas and 10.0"WC (2.46 kPa) for propane gas for the 120 and 150 models and 0"WC (o kPa) for both natural and propane gas 199 and 250 models. Please note that the manifold pressure listed is the maximum value for the manifold pressure. Do not set the manifold pressure higher than the value show in Table 4. OVER FIRING the heater will result in a rough ignition and/or noisy operation.
8.Confirm that the air inlet screen (see Figures 7 & 8) is free of obstructions.
CAUTION
Do not reach into the burner housing or combustion chamber if the heater is still hot. Allow the heater to cool and always use gloves as the combustion chamber and the burner sleeve and housing can become very hot after operation. OVER FIRING is a dangerous condition that must be corrected immediately.
GAS FAILS TO SHUT OFF
Check for defective gas valve or thermostat. If operation is incorrect, replace.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts may be ordered through State dealers, authorized servicers or distributors. Refer to the Yellow Pages for where to call or contact the State Water Heaters, 500 Tennessee Waltz Parkway, Ashland City, TN 37015, 1-800-821-2017. When ordering parts be sure to state the quantity, part number and description of the items including the complete model and serial number as it appears on the product. Refer to the parts list for more information.
