HOW TO WORK WITH
PLANS AND PARTS
WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION
Before starting model construction, exam- ine the kit and study the plan carefully. Fa- miliarizing yourself with the kit will serve two purposes. First, it will let you deter- mine that all parts have been supplied as listed. And second, you'll be surprised at just how quickly handling the parts allows you to better understand the kit require- ments. Try to visualize how every part will look on the completed model. Also, deter- mine ahead of time what must be done first. The instructions will help you in this regard, but a thorough knowledge of the plan at the outset is essential.
It is suggested that all small fittings and hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or compartments to avoid loss during the building process.
1. The Plan
One Plan Sheet is provided. However, many sketches throughout this manual further illustrate the various stages of construction.
The TAURUS kit is manufactured to a scale of 1/8" = 1'0". The plan is drawn to the exact scale that the model is to be built. Dimensions can be lifted directly off the plan by using a set of draftsman dividers or by using a "tick" strip, which is simply a piece of paper used to "pick up" the di- mensions (a roll of calculator tape works very well). Lay your paper strip over the plan and mark the lengths of items care- fully with a sharp pencil. Then use the strip to transfer the marks to the wood or item to be made to scale.
2. Kit Lumber
Your kit may contain limewood, a Euro- pean wood, as a substitute for the bass- wood. Both woods are similar in worka- bility and grain.
3. Cast Metal Fittings
The kit is supplied with Britannia metal castings. The Britannia metal is a great improvement over the white metal that was used in some older kits. Unlike white metal and pewter, Britannia does not contain lead, so there are no possible corrosion problems. The fittings, howev- er, will require final finishing before they are suitable for installing on the model.
Before painting the cast metal fittings, clean them up by removing all the mold joint flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby blade to cut the flash, then file or sand with fine sandpaper. It is also suggested that you clean the fittings thoroughly with warm soapy water before applying primer. Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly and allowed to dry before painting.
The following tools and supplies are rec- ommended for the construction process. Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites.
A. Knives & Saws
1.Hobby knife with No. 11 blades
2.Coping saw (or jeweler's saw frame) and fine blades
B.Files
Set of needle files
C.CarvingTools
Small chisel and gouge for shaping the bulwarks
D.Sharpening Stone
Necessary to keep the tools razor sharp
E.Clamps
1.Several wooden clothespins
3.Rubber bands
F.Wire Cutters & Tin Snips
For cutting fine wire & chain; for cutting brass sheet
G. Boring Tools
1.Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80
2.A pin vise
3.Larger bits: 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8"
H.Miscellaneous
1.Tack hammer
2.Tweezers (a few)
3.Miniature pliers
a.small round for forming rings and eyes
b.flat nose (with serrated jaws)
4.1/2" or 3/4" masking tape
I.Sandpaper
Fine and medium grit garnet or aluminum oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)
J. Finishing:
Paint brushes
a. fine point for details
b. 1/4 flat square for hull
K.Supplies:
(will be covered in detail in the Painting & Staining section and throughout instructions.)
1.Paints
2.Primer
3.Stains/varnish
4.White or Carpenter's (yellow) wood glue
5.Five minute epoxy
6.Super glue
7.Model airplane type glue
Note about Glues: White or Carpenter's yellow wood glue will suffice for most of the model.
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