Hobie 18 and SX18 Updates

INSTALLING THE RUDDER ASSEMBLY

The rudders were updated after 1987. The newer rudders use a black plastic cam to lock the rudder in the down position. Locate the left and right rudder assemblies. The left one has a red dot and the right one a green dot. The tiller arms should have a slight bow towards the centerline of the boat.

INSTALLING THE SAIL BATTENS

Unfold the sail and lay it out on the trampoline. There will be a small bundle of thin lines tied to the top of the sail. These are the batten tension lines. Tie the batten tension lines to one of the small grommets at the end of each batten pocket as diagramed in figure 28 (one to each batten pocket). Tie the lines using a bowline knot

Figure 26

As shown in the original instructions, position the rudders at the transom. There are two bushings and two washers provided with the each new assembly. Slide the bushings in from the bottom and place the longer one in the lower casting hole. Install a cotter key in each rudder pin. Assemble as shown below. Then insert the remaining cotter keys in the top of the rudder pins to hold the rudders in place.

INSTALLING THE TILLER CONNECTOR

The tiller arms have swivels on the ends. Point the connector rods upwards and slide the tiller connector end fitting over the rods. Place the adjustable end of the connector rod to the port (left) side of the boat. Pull the small tabs forward and over the rod and lock them in the slots. Rudder toe-in adjustments can be made with the threaded end fitting on the tiller cross bar. Typical adjustment has rudders in parallel.

Figure 27

Figure 28

as found in the "knots" diagramed on page 4. It is best to tie the lines all to one side of the sail. Insert each batten (shortest batten at the top to longest batten at the bottom of the sail).

Note that the batten ends have a "V" jam cleat molded into them. These "V" jam cleats will keep the tension line from slipping in only one direction. Note the hollowed-out side of the cleats. Pull the line from the flush side toward the hollowed side.

The upper batten is narrower and has a different cleat shape. To be sure this cleat works correctly, position it so that the hollowed out side of the cap faces the bowline that you have tied to the sail grommet. Position the larger caps so that the hollowed sides face away from each knot.

Following the diagram in figure 28, lace the tension lines through each batten end cap. Pass the line through the hole in the cap, then through the grommet on the opposite side. For the smaller caps, pass the line over the "V' cleat, pull tension forcing the batten into the pocket, then pull the line into the cleat to hold it. For the larger caps, pass the line through the second hole in the cap, then pass the line through the first grommet and back to the "V" cleat. Pull tension on the line forcing the batten into the pocket and cleat it. Tie a small figure 8 knot in the end 1 of each line to prevent the battens from falling from the sail if the line releases from the cleat. Tension each batten so that the batten is well seated and the wrinkles in the batten pockets are removed. Excessive batten tension will cause the sail to be more difficult to handle.