3.Clamp the board to the bandsaw table with- out moving it. Now slide the fence over to the board so it barely touches one end of the board.
4.Loosen the two cap screws that mount the front rail to the table.
5.Place shims between the front rail and the table as necessary to make the fence parallel to the edge of the scrap piece.
Note: Shim stock works well for this, but small pieces of paper can also work in a pinch.
To compensate for lead when making straight crosscuts with the miter gauge, you will need to shift the table:
1.Set the miter gauge to 90° and verify that the gauge body is square to the miter bar, using a 90° square.
2.On a scrap piece of wood, mark a line that is perpendicular to the front edge of the workpiece.
3.Starting where the line begins, cut the board by pushing it through the blade with the miter gauge.
4.Loosen the table mounting bolts, and shift the table to compensate for the blade lead.
5.Repeat Steps 1 & 2 until the blade cuts straight when wood is pushed through with the miter gauge.
NOTICE
If the table is shifted, the fence will be affected since it is attached.
NOTICE
Lead adjustments will change when new blades are mounted on the saw.
Wheel Alignment
Wheel alignment, or "Coplanar Tracking," is one of the easiest ways to ensure you get optimal per- formance from your bandsaw. When wheels are aligned, or coplanar, the bandsaw cuts straighter. Vibration, heat, and blade wear are also consid- erably decreased because the blade is automati- cally balanced on the wheel.
Verifying Upper/Lower Wheels are Coplanar
1.DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
2.With the blade on and properly tensioned, hold a straightedge close to the center of both wheels. Make sure the straightedge fully extends across the wheels as shown in Figure 49.