Adjusting blade gauge itself | t | , |
Constant use of a blade gauge leads to wear |
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on the inside flank, resulting in improper |
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settings. To compensate for this, the blade |
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gauge itself must be adjusted. If, for ex- |
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ample, you notice that the blade is below |
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the level of the rear shoe, you probably are |
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not able to actually plane - so the blade |
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must protrude more. But, if turning the |
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depth knob all the way fails to make the |
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blade protrude sufficinetly for planing,
then you have to adjust the blade gauge itself. Loosen the adjusting screws set into the blade gauge, turning them to the left until their heads contact the inner walls of the inside notches. (See Fig. 5,6.) If you need more leeway for adjustment than the space provided by the notch, loosen the gauge plate installation screws on top to move the guage plate as required. After adjusting the gauge plate for correct blade settings, secure the top screws and inside adjustingscrews.
Note: Do not turn the adjusting screws except a t the time of this adjustment.
FOR THE CORRECT PLANER BLADE SETTING (ALL MODELS)
Your planing surface will end up unsmooth and not level, unless the blade is set properly and securely. The blade must be mounted so that the cutting edge is absolutely level, that is, parallel to the surface of the rear base. Below are some examples of proper and im- proper settings.
( A )
(B)
settingCorrect
at start
Gouging at end
Front base (Movable shoe) Rear base (Stationary shoe)
=m Although this side view cannot show it, the edges of the baldes run perfect- ly parallel t o the rear base surface.
m?)Cause: One or b o t h blades fails t o have edge parallel t o rear base line.
Cause: One or both blade edges fails t o protrude enough in relation
E2aT(- t o rear base line.
~~Cause: One or both balde edges pro - trudes t o o far in relation t o rear base line.
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