11.Make a 28" long fence that is 23⁄4" tall.
The fence thickness is determined by the largest size router bit you will use. A 11⁄2" thick fence works well for most router bits. Ultimately, the fence must be thick enough to accommodate the portion of the router bit behind the front fence surface. To determine this, subtract the cutting depth from the router bit diameter, then add 1⁄4" (see Figure 22).
Make sure you properly square up all sides of your fence. (If you regularly experience snipe from squaring your boards with your planer and jointer, make the fence 4" longer and cut off the end with the snipe after squaring the board up.)
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Figure 22. Determining fence thickness from
router bit dimensions.
12.Cut your fence in half. One side will be the infeed fence and the other side will be the outfeed fence.
—If you are using a router bit that will not remove the entire face of your workpiece, as illustrated in Figure 23, then skip ahead to Step 14.
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Figure 23. Typical routing operation for partial
face removal of workpiece.
—If you are using a router bit that will remove the entire face of the workpiece, as illus- trated in Figure 24, continue with Step 13.
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Figure 24. Typical routing operation for full face
removal of workpiece.
13.Face plane approximately 1⁄16" off of the fence board that will be the infeed fence. The amount of material removed in this step will control your depth of cut.
Removing more than 1⁄16" from the infeed fence may greatly increase the risk of kick- back injury when routing.
14.If not already done so, properly mount your router with the installed router bit on the router table. Refer to Mounting Router on Page 13 for instructions.
15.Mount the table saw fence to the left of the router bit and move the fence so the support board is next to the router bit.
Attaching the fence faces incorrectly during the next step may increase the risk of kick- back or other serious personal injury during routing operations.