Having a Problem?

1.The opener doesn’t operate from either the Door Control or the remote control:

Does the opener have electric power? Plug a lamp into the outlet. If it doesn’t light, check the fuse box or the circuit breaker. (Some outlets are controlled by a wall switch.)

Have you disabled all door locks? Review installation instruction warnings on page 7.

Is there a build-up of ice or snow under the door? The door may be frozen to the ground. Remove any restriction.

The garage door spring may be broken. Have it replaced.

Repeated operation may have tripped the overload protector in the motor. Wait 15 minutes and try again.

2.Opener operates from the remote, but not from the Door Control:

Is the door control lit? If not, reverse the wires. If the opener runs, check for a faulty wire connection at the door control, a short under the staples, or a broken wire.

Are the wiring connections correct? Review Installation Step 6, page 12.

3.The door operates from the Door Control, but not from the remote control:

Is the door push bar flashing? If your model has the Lock feature, make sure it is off.

Program the opener to match the remote control code. (Refer to instructions on the motor unit panel.) Repeat with all remotes.

4. The remote control has short range:

Change the location of the remote control in your car.

Check to be sure the antenna on the side or back panel of motor unit extends fully downward.

Some installations may have shorter range due to a metal door, foil backed insulation, or metal garage siding.

5. Opener noise is disturbing in living quarters of home:

If operational noise is a problem because of proximity of the opener to the living quarters, the Vibration Isolator Kit 89LM can be installed. This kit was designed to minimize vibration to the house and is easy to install.

6. The garage door opens and closes by itself:

Be sure that all remote control push buttons are off.

Remove the bell wire from the door control terminals and operate from the remote only. If this solves the problem, the door control is faulty (replace), or there is an intermittent short on the wire between the door control and the motor unit.

Clear memory and re-program all remote controls.

7. The door doesn’t open completely:

Is something obstructing the door? Is it out of balance, or are the springs broken? Remove the obstruction or repair the door.

If the door is in good working order but now doesn’t open all the way, increase the up force. See Adjustment Step 2.

If the door opens at least 5 feet (1.5 m), the travel limits may need to be increased. One turn equals 2" (5 cm) of travel. See Adjustment Step 1.

Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment is complete.

8. The door stops but doesn’t close completely:

Review the travel limits adjustment procedures on page 20. Repeat the safety reverse test after any adjustment of door arm length, close force or down limit.

9. The door opens but won’t close:

If the opener lights blink, check the safety reversing sensor. See Installation Step 10.

If the opener lights don’t blink and it is a new installation, check the down force. See Adjustment Step 2. For an existing installation, see below.

Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment is complete.

10.The door reverses for no apparent reason and opener lights don’t blink:

Is something obstructing the door? Pull the emergency release handle. Operate the door manually. If it is unbalanced or binding, call a trained door systems technician.

Clear any ice or snow from the garage floor area where the door closes.

Review Adjustment Step 2.

If door reverses in the fully closed position, decrease the travel limits (Adjustment Step 1).

Repeat safety reverse test after adjustments to force or travel limits. The need for occasional adjustment of the force and limit settings is normal. Weather conditions in particular can affect door travel.

11.The door reverses for no apparent reason and opener lights blink for 5 seconds after reversing:

Check the safety reversing sensor. Remove any obstruction or align the receiving eye. See Installation Step 10.

12. The opener lights don’t turn on:

Replace the light bulbs (75 watts maximum). Use a standard neck garage door opener bulb if regular bulb burns out.

13. The opener lights don’t turn off:

Is the Light feature on? Turn it off.

14.The opener strains or maximum force is needed to operate door:

The door may be out of balance or the springs may be broken. Close the door and use the emergency release handle to disconnect the trolley. Open and close the door manually. A properly balanced door will stay in any point of travel while being supported entirely by its springs. If it does not, disconnect the opener and call a trained door systems technician. Do not increase the force to operate the opener.

15.The opener motor hums briefly, then won’t work:

• The garage door springs may be broken. See above.

• If the problem occurs on the first operation of the opener, door may be locked. Disable the door lock.

Repeat the safety reverse test after the adjustment is complete.

16.The opener won’t operate due to power failure:

Use the emergency release handle to disconnect the trolley. The door can be opened and closed manually. When power is restored, press the Door Control push bar and trolley will automatically reconnect (unless trolley is in lockout position.) See page 24.

The Outside Quick Release accessory (for use on garages with no service door) disconnects the trolley from outside the garage in case of power failure.

17. The chain droops or sags:

It is normal for the chain to droop slightly in the closed door position. Use the emergency release rope and handle to disconnect the trolley. If the chain returns to the normal height when the trolley is disengaged, and the door reverses on a 2x4 laid flat, no adjustments are needed. (See page 7.)

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