DeWalt DWS782 Support for Long Pieces, Cutting Trim Molding And Other Frames Fig, Examples

counterclockwise one turn. To ensure the miter lock is functioning properly, re-lock the miter lock to a non-detented measurement on the miter scale – for example, 34º – and make sure the table will not rotate. Tighten lock nut.

Support for Long Pieces

WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, turn unit off and disconnect it from power source before installing and removing accessories, before adjusting or when making repairs. An accidental start-up can cause injury.

ALWAYS SUPPORT LONG PIECES.

Never use another person as a substitute for a table extension, as additional support for a workpiece that is longer or wider than the basic miter saw table or to help feed, support or pull the workpiece.

For best results, use the DW7080 extension work support to extend the table width of your saw, available from your dealer at extra cost. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.

Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes And Other Four- Sided Projects (Fig. 13, 14)

To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for your saw.

Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the one shown in Figure 13. Sketch A in Figure 14 shows a joint made by using the bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45º each to produce a 90º corner. For this joint the miter arm was locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45º. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the fence.

FIG. 13 FIG. 14

A

B

A

Cutting Trim Molding And Other Frames (Fig. 14)

Sketch B in Figure 14 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45º to miter the two boards to form a 90º corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter arm to 45º. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.

The two sketches in Figure 14 are for four-sided objects only.

As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.

– EXAMPLES –
NUMBER OF SIDES	MITER OR BEVEL ANGLE
4	45°	English
5	36°
6	30°
7	25.7°
8	22.5°
9	20°
10	18°

The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula: 180º divided by the number of sides equals the miter (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material is cut laying flat).

Cutting Compound Miters	FIG. 15
(Fig. 15)
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle
and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of
cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides
like the one shown in Figure 15.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut,
check that the bevel lock knob and the miter lock	ANGLE “A”
handle are securely locked. These must be locked
after making any changes in bevel or miter.

The chart at the end of this manual (Table 1) will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and miter settings for common compound miter cuts. To use the chart, select the desired angle A (Fig. 15) of your project and locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across to find the correct miter angle.

Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts. Practice fitting the cut pieces together until you develop a feel for this procedure and feel comfortable with it.

Example: To make a 4-sided box with 26º exterior angles (Angle A, Fig. 15), use the upper right arc. Find 26° on the arc scale. Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get miter angle setting on saw (42°). Likewise, follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (18°). Always try cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.

Cutting Base Molding (Fig. 16)

ALWAYS MAKE A DRY RUN WITHOUT POWER BEFORE MAKING ANY CUTS. Straight 90º cuts:

Position the wood against the fence and hold it in place as shown in Figure 16. Turn on the saw, allow the blade to reach full speed and lower the arm smoothly through the cut.

CUTTING BASE MOLDING FROM 3" UP TO 6.75" (76 mm to 171 mm) HIGH VERTICALLY AGAINST THE FENCE

NOTE: Use the slide lock lever, shown in Figure 7, when cutting base molding measuring from 3" to 6.75" (76 mm to 171 mm) high vertically against the fence.

Position material as shown in Figure 16.

All cuts should be made with the back of the molding against the fence and with the bottom of the molding against the table.

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