Troubleshooting
If your unit does not operate, or simply does not heat your pool water, Fault Codes (digital models), or the indicator lamps (analog models) on the front control panel, can provide valuable clues as to what is wrong, and may even indicate precisely what the problem is. Always observe these codes (or lamps) before calling a service representative. By reporting on the tele- phone the Fault Codes (or which lamps are ON or OFF) that are showing, the service rep may be able to solve the problem without the expense of a service call.
A. UNIT IS RUNNING, BUT NOT HEATING
•Is water flow through the unit adequate? Check the unit for obstructions, such as a clogged filter pump strainer, a dirty filter, or valves not posi- tioned correctly.
•Is the ejected air from the unit
•Is water condensing on the evaporator and inter- nal copper pipes? This is also evidence of heat removal from the air. When the air is cool with low humidity, condensation may not be evident.
•How long has the unit been operating? During ini- tial pool heating in cold weather, it may require a week to elevate the water temperature to a com- fortable level. Normally, it takes about 4 days.
How many hours per day is the unit operating?
Remember that the heat pump pool heater only operates while the pool pump is running. Set the time clock to permit 24 hour per day operation. After the desired temperature is reached, return the unit to normal operation of
NOTE: If the pool pump and heat pump pool heater shut OFF before the water temperature is raised to the desired level, you must lengthen the running time of both. To do this, reset the time clock dial for the longer running time, or manually operate the pump with the timer override switch. Since the unit capaci- ty and efficiency are both greater at higher ambient air temperatures, run time should be set to take advantage of all daylight hours, when the air is gen- erally warmer.
•Is airflow through the unit being obstructed? Restrictions such as shrubbery, tall grass, dirty
coils, or any other obstruction to airflow will reduce performance.
•Is the pool blanket/cover being used? Unblanketed pools can lose up to 10 degrees per night compared to 4 degrees or fewer when a blanket is used. Without a blanket, the total heat gained during the day can be lost overnight.
•Are rapid heat losses occurring in some other way, such as high wind, spillage, rainfall, flow through solar panels at night, or a high water table?
B. UNIT IS NOT RUNNING
•Is the temperature display or control panel Power lamp ON? If not, the circuit breaker may be shut OFF or tripped. Reset the breaker by switching it OFF, and then back ON. Verify that the breaker is set and operating properly before calling for service.
•Is the thermostat setting and the Pool/Spa setting correct? Verify that the temperature has been properly set on the thermostat, and that it is high- er than the current water temperature. On analog units, all 3 lamps should be illuminated and the fan should begin to run.
•Have you waited approximately 5 minutes for the time delay? After the unit has been running and then shut OFF for any reason, there is a delay before operation can begin again.
•Is the Heat Light or Heat Demand lamp ON? If not, then the thermostat setting is not higher than the temperature of the water. Raise the thermostat setting.
NOTE: The heat pump pool heater will not run when the Remote position is selected on the Pool/Spa selector switch and there is no remote control sys- tem attached.
C. CONDENSATION SEEMS EXCESSIVE
Heat pump pool heaters can produce a large amount of condensation (water) during operation. If you sus- pect that the unit is leaking:
a.Use a pool chemistry test kit to confirm there is no chlorine in the condensation. Or,
b.Shut the unit OFF and leave the filter pump run- ning to see if the water stops dripping. If the water stops dripping, the unit is not leaking.
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