CATHODIC PROTECTION

Depending on the model, two or three magnesium anodes are factory installed inside the tank to provide corrosion protection and to extend tank life. Permanent removal of the anode(s) for any purpose will void the warranty.

Read the warranty attached to this water heater for a full explanation of the time period that parts and the heater are warranted.

It is advisable to inspect the condition of the anode(s) at certain intervals. A two year period may be a guide to begin with. The life of the anode depends on many factors and can differ greatly from one location to another.

To remove and anode, proceed as follows:

1.Turn the gas off at the inlet to the heater.

2.Turn water off at the cold water inlet valve.

3.Open a nearby HOT water tap.

4.Drain approximately two pails full of water from the heater.

5.Remove the vent pipe and the draft hood. Remove the hot and cold water connections.

6.Lift up the other casing top and the insulation under it.

7.Lift up the inner flue collector. NOTE: the flue collector has a lip extending out on the circumference which can be used for lifting.

8.With a 1-1/6” hex socket wrench, loosen the anode from the fitting in the tank top.

NOTE: The anodes have been factory installed using a power tool. It will be necessary for a second person to restrain the heater. A few sharp blows on the handle of the socket wrench will loosen the anode adapter.

If an impact wrench (power driven) is available, this is an easy way to remove an anode.

9.Lift the anode up and inspect. There should be at least 3/8” to 1/2” of anode diameter left. The surface may be rough, full of pits and crevices, but this is normal.

If there is less than approximately 3/8” diameter left, the anode needs to be replaced.

10.Apply a good grade of pipe dope to the threads of the anode adaptor and screw securely into the tank top.

11.Replace the flue collector. Make sure it seals all around the circumference.

12.Replace the insulation and the casing top.

13.Re-connect hot and cold water lines.

14.Replace the draft hood and the vent pipe. NOTE: If the vent pipe shows signs of corrosion or damage, replace it with new material. See section on “Venting”

15.Open the cold water inlet valve and fill the tank.

16.Check for leaks.

17.To relight burners, follow “Lighting Instructions”

CAUTION

Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water sys- tem served by this heater that has not been used for a long period of time (generally two weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable. To reduce the risk of injury under these conditions, it is recommended that a hot water faucet be opened for several minutes at the kitchen sink before using any electrical appliances connected to the hot water system. If hydrogen is present, there will probably be an unusual sound such as air escaping through the pipe as the water begins to flow. There should be no smoking or open flame near the faucet at the time it is opened.

DISHWASHING MACHINE REQUIREMENTS

The heater may be operated to supply the 180oF sanitizing rinse water required by the public health code for dishwashing machines. In such installations, the heater should be located as close as possible to the dishwasher. If the distance between the dishwasher and heater is greater than 5 ft. the pipes should be insulated and recirculation of the 180oF water should be provided. The circulation flow rate should be enough to provided 180oF to the dishwasher, however, the rate should be low to minimize turbulence inside the water heater.

Flow pressures to the dishwasher above 25 or below 15 pounds per square inch will not produce a proper rinse spray. If flow pressure to the dishwasher is high a pressure reducing valve should be used in the 180oF line to deliver water at 20 pounds per square inch for the rinse cycle. If the flow is too low a pressure booster should be installed.

MULTIPLE HEATERS IN SINGLE SYSTEM

When two or more water heaters are installed into a single sys- tem, the following precautions must be taken to ensure that each heater is able to deliver it’s full rated capacity of hot water for maximum system efficiency.

1.Gas supply piping must be large enough (see table 1)

2.The combined flue pipe must be large enough. see local codes.

3.The water connections must be properly manifolded.

WATER ODOR PROBLEMS

When the area water trace mineral content is high. The odor of the water may be strong. Replacing the water by draining it completely and flushing then refilling it may help. Chlorination and replacement of magnesium anode with aluminum anode may help if the problem persists.

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GSW G65 Cathodic Protection, Dishwashing Machine Requirements, Multiple Heaters in Single System, Water Odor Problems

G65 specifications

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