INPUT SELECT | VOLUME |
AUX |
|
CD | HEADPHONES |
TAPE |
|
TUNER |
|
VIDEO |
|
LINE OUTPUT
HEADPHONES
ON
OFF
AB C DEF
A - INPUT SELECT - 5 Position switch for input selection. Each input is electrically identical. The RECORD OUT directly follows this switch. There is no buffer amp to isolate the effects of loading and cable capacitance so we recommend disconnecting any interconnect cables from the RECORD OUT if you are not recording.
B - VOLUME - 24 Position switch with precise 2 dB steps of attenuation throughout most of the range. The most
C & D - HEADPHONE JACKS - Standard 1/4" stereo headphone jacks. The HEADPHONE IMPEDANCE SWITCH should be set for the range that best matches your headphones. The OUTPUT SELECT SWITCH (E) should be set to HEADPHONES. The maximum power output primarily depends on the actual headphone impedance. Typically the preamp can deliver 1 watt (10 volts RMS ) into 100 ohms and 1 watt (25 volts RMS) into 600 ohms. These outputs are transformer coupled so there is the highest possible isolation from shock hazards, cable shorts, and other potential problems.
E - BACKLIT PANEL - This is the power indicator.
F - POWER SWITCH - UP is ON, Down is OFF. Because tubes require some time to warm up there is about 10 seconds of silence followed by "not good sound" before "wow". The best way to power up the system is sources ( CD, turntable, etc) first, then this preamp, then after a 30 second wait - turn on the amplifiers. Wait a minute or so - then play tunes. This allows everything to warm up. Some people hear a difference after an hour or two but it depends on the equipment. Powering down is the opposite order - power amps first. This procedure is a good habit to follow because it stresses the speakers and ears the least.
The power supply in this preamp is tube based which has the inherant advantage of slow start (as the tubes warm up). This gives the least stress to the internal components.
