then the fault is somewhere in the bad channel. Check the input program switches, octal accessory (if any) or jacks. See Section 3.5 for correct switch settings. Inspect the binding posts for damage, and try a different input jack or the parallel channel switches before giving up on the channel.
3.93Weak But Clear Sound This usually indicates lack of input signal or incorrect Gain adjustment at some point. Again, if the other channel is working, try swapping connections to see if the problem is in the channel or elsewhere. If the sound is very thin or muffled, one driver in a
3.94Weak and Distorted Sound If the amplifier clip light comes on during the distortion, there is a shorted speaker cable, the speaker is blown, or the amplifier channel is defective. If the clip light does not show during the distortion, this shows that the distortion is happening outside of the amplifier. You will have to check for misadjusted or defective units before the amplifier, or defective speakers. Also verify that amplifier Gain is in the normal range
3.95Sound Cuts In and Out This is usually caused by a bad connection. See if shaking the amp or the input/output connectors causes the problem. If the sound cuts out for a minute and then comes back on by itself, check the amplifier for overheating (thermal
3.96Sound Has Bad Tone (poor treble or bass) The amplifier itself is very unlikely to develop a frequency response problem, without more serious effects. Therefore, lack of frequency range must be traced to the speakers or preceding units.
3.97Lacks Power This is a common but indefinite complaint. Is there a lack of power in the sense that it is soft but clear (see Section 3.93) or does it seem to distort too easily (see Section 3.94). Also, be aware that speaker efficiency will drop perceptibly after heavy usage, due to the increased resistance of the voice coils as they heat up; volume will return when the speakers cool down.
In a
3.98UNWANTED NOISES
Hum— in this case, defined as a fairly rounded
A milder form of hum, often with a little more “tone” or harmonic content, is usually the result of ground loops. This problem is caused by
Buzz— defined as a very “razzy” kind of hum. This is usually caused by interference from
Hiss— defined as a smooth “shhh” noise. This is always a problem with sensitive,
There is a noise “floor” caused by random atomic vibrations. This limits the
To isolate the source of unwanted hiss, start at the amp, and work backwards, reducing and then restoring gains. You should hear a reduction of hiss and audio together at each point, showing that the hiss is coming in earlier. When you find a control which lowers the audio volume, but not the hiss level, you know the hiss is coming in after
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