Ryobi RE180PL1 manual Rate of Feed, Feeding Too Fast, Feeding Too Slow, TOO Fast TOO Slow

OPERATION

RATE OF FEED

IMPORTANT: The “secret” of professional routing and edge shaping lies in making a careful set-up for the cut and in selecting the proper rate of feed.

The proper rate of feed depends on several factors: the hardness and moisture content of the wood, the depth of cut, and the cutting diameter of the bit. When cutting shallow grooves in soft woods such as pine, a faster rate of feed can be used. When making deep cuts in hardwoods such as oak, a slower rate of feed should be used.

The best rate of feed is one that does not slow down the router motor more than one-third of its no-load speed. If the router is fed too fast, it will take large chips out of the wood and leave gouge marks. If the router is fed too slow, it will scorch or burn the wood.

Feeding Too Fast

Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only when the bit is revolving at a relatively high speed and is taking very small bites to produce tiny, cleanly severed chips. If your router is forced to move forward too fast, the RPM of the bit becomes slower than normal in relation to its forward movement. As a result, the bit must take bigger bites as it revolves. “Bigger bites” mean bigger chips, and a rougher finish. Bigger chips also require more power, which could result in the router motor becoming overloaded.

Under extreme force-feeding conditions the relative RPM of the bit can become so slow — and the bites it has to take so large — that chips will be partially knocked off (rather than fully cut off), resulting in splintering and gouging of the workpiece. See Figure 21.

Your router is an extremely high-speed tool (15,000 - 23,000 RPM no-load speed), and will make clean, smooth cuts if allowed to run freely without the overload of a forced (too fast) feed. Three things that cause “force feeding” are bit size, depth-of-cut, and workpiece characteristics. The larger the bit or the deeper the cut, the more slowly the router should be advanced. If the wood is very hard, knotty, gummy or damp, the operation must be slowed still more.

You can always detect “force feeding” by the sound of the motor. Its high-pitched whine will sound lower and stronger as it loses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be noticeably increased.

Feeding Too Slow

It is also possible to spoil a cut by moving the router forward too slowly. When it is advanced into the work too slowly, a revolving bit does not dig into new wood fast enough to take a bite; instead, it simply scrapes away sawdust-like particles. Scraping produces heat, which can glaze, burn, or mar the cut and in extreme cases, can even overheat the bit so as to destroy its hardness.

In addition, it is more difficult to control a router when the bit is scraping instead of cutting. With practically no load on the motor the bit will be revolving at close to top RPM, and will have a much greater than normal tendency to bounce off the sides of the cut (especially if the wood has a pronounced grain with hard and soft areas). As a result, the cut produced may have rippled, instead of straight sides. See Figure 21.

“Too-slow feeding” can also cause your router to take off in a wrong direction from the intended line of cut. Always grasp and hold your router firmly with both hands when routing.

You can detect “too-slow feeding” by the runaway, high- pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the “wiggle” of the bit in the cut.

TOO FAST

TOO SLOW

Fig. 21

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