TROUBLE SHOOTING
Introduction
The AquaStar 38 burners are ignited by a water flow valve. Numerous water related problems can cause this water valve to malfunction such as: Insufficient water flow volume to activate the burners at its minimum flow requirement; Dirt in the water flow valve causing it to malfunction; Sediment build-up in faucet aerators, or shower heads; Uneven pressures between cold and hot. (with single lever faucets) Plumbing cross overs. These water flow related problems can cause the heater to deliver less than its full output, or to fail to ignite or to shut down completely.
Problems are stated in upper case, bold face. Most common causes for the problems follow in order of likelihood. The suggested solutions require that the cover be taken off. To this, remove incandescent particle tray, pull off the temperature adjustment knob and unscrew and remove the plastic collar and unscrew the central screw located at the bottom of the front cover. Pull main cover out toward you and lift up and out.
1. No gas to the Aquastar
A.Gas cock on gas line may not be open.
B.Gas valve button has not been moved to “PILOT
POSITION”. Slide button to right to single flame position ( 
).
2.In-line Aquastar gas regulator jammed (usually on LP gas)
Replace or unjam the regulator. Note: The regulator furnished with thw heater is designed for low gas pressure. Excessive pressure will lock it up (propane only). Jamming usually happens if the gas pressure between the gas tank (propane) and the water heater’s gas regulator has not been reduceed. See page 2 for recommended correct gas pressure and check with gas service person.
3.Pilot orifice clogged and/or air screen dirty Clogging of the pilot burner can be caused by dust and any suspended matter contained in the ambient air. Although the filters can lengthen the cleaning intervals, they can never completely prevent such clogging. In consequence the gas jet issuing from the pilot orifice is reduced and or the air mixture is reduced. The pilot flame is weak and thus can no longer heat the thermocouple sufficiently. For cleaning purposes, the air filter screen is pulled off, washed and blown out. The pilot orifice has likewise to be cleaned or exchanged. Consult Controlled Energy or a gas service person.
4.Air in the Gas Line
Note: Normally this is a problem only at the time of initial installation, after the pipes have been worked on, or after a propane tank has been allowed to empty, or after the heater has been shut down for a long time.
Bleed all the air trapped in the gas line. Because of the very small pilot orifice (especially on LP gas models), bleeding out all the air could take several minutes. Slide the gas valve button ( 
) to pilot position ( 
) and depress this button until all the air has escaped, and the gas has arrived. During this process, press on the piezo ignition
button separately until the pilot flame has ignited.
PILOT LIGHTS BUT FLAME GOES OUT WHEN BUTTON IS RELEASED
1.Pilot push button was not pushed in far enough or was not held in long enough
Slide the gas valve button (
) to pilot position ( 
) and depress this button. Hold it pushed in for at least 15 seconds to give time for the pilot flame to properly heat the tip of the thermocouple.
2.Pilot flame improperly aimed or is too weak so it is not properly heating the tip of the thermocouple.
The Pilot flame should be a sharp blue flame and aimed at the tip of the thermocouple so that it envelops 10 mm (3/8 “) of the thermocouple tip. Pilot flame has to be properly aimed at the thermocouple. See Fig 7.
3.Poor thermocouple connection at the electromagnet
Note: Electromagnet is part #8707201012 located on the right side of the gas valve behind the piezo pushbutton assembly. Check the tightness of the thermocouple connection nut at the electromagnet: The Electro-magnet connection is a large aluminum 17mm hex head nut. The thermocouple end is a 5 mm brass nut which screws into the 17 mm nut. Tighten the thermocouple nut snugly but not too tight.
4.Poor circuit connections at the ECO. (Energy Cut- Off overheat protection)
Oxidation or looseness of the ECO terminal connections can result in millivolt current loss through the thermocouple safety circuit. Clean terminals with very fine sand paper or an eraser and reconnect ECO leads.
5. Faulty ECO (part #8707206040)
If cleaning the terminals attached to the ECO did not fix the problem, connect a jumper wire between the two wires and try to relight the pilot. If the pilot flame now remains on, replace the ECO. If the flame still goes out when the button is released, the ECO is not defective. Go to next step.
6.Faulty thermocouple (part #8747202083) or electromagnet ) Unless these 2 parts are at least 8 to 10 years old, it is very unlikely that they are faulty. Before testing, reconfirm that #2 is absolutely correct, and that all connections are clean and tight.
To test the thermocouple, disconnect the thermocouple lead to the ECO. Insert a multi-meter probe on the thermocouple ECO connection and attach the other meter lead on the spade connector of the ECO. Light the pilot flame, and take a reading on the meter. If it reads less than 24mv, replace the thermocouple. If the reading is 24mv or over the thermocouple is good. To test the electro- magnet, take another reading across the ECO spade while the pilot flame is on. The reading should drop to about 15 mv. If it does not and remains unchanged, replace the electromagnet.