American Water Heater HPE10280H045DV manual Powered Anode Troubleshooting and Replacement

Powered Anode Troubleshooting and Replacement

Checking the Powered Anode for Proper Operation:

When dissimilar metals are in contact with water, a galvanic cell will likely result and corrosion of the metal components will occur. If left unchecked, corrosion will weaken the wall of a water heater tank which will eventually leak. Passive anodes are typically used to counteract this corrosion and extend tank life. Passive anodes erode over time and become less effective until they stop working all together, another type of protective device is a powered anode.

A powered anode is an active device that counteracts galvanic corrosion in the water heater tank. Unlike

a standard depleting anode, a powered anode does not lose effectiveness over time. The powered anode circuit is made up of an electronic control, a titanium anode rod, and the water heater tank. The electronic control monitors conditions in the tank and produces a voltage that will prevent galvanic corrosion from occuring. The titanium anode rod consists of two functional parts: A steel body which threads into the tank providing mechanical and electrical connection to the tank and a titanium rod that is electrically insulated from the body. The voltage produced by the powered anode circuit is delivered to the titanium anode rod by a red wire connected to the tab that connects to the anode rod. Current flows from the titanium anode rod, through the water and to the grounded tank wall. The powered anode circuitry will maintain the minimum voltage required to protect the tank steel.

Fault detection is built into the powered anode software. If a fault is detected, an error message will be displayed on the User Interface Module (UIM): “Powered Anode Fault”. By checking the fault code history see “Interpreting the Fault Code History” (p.21), a specific fault code can be read to aid in isolating the cause. Refer to the Fault Code Troubleshooting guide for the list of powered anode fault messages, what the messages indicate, possible causes, and corrective actions.

IMPORTANT: The anode protecting the tank requires power to the unit to operate. Do not shut off power to the unit for an extended period of time. If power must be turned off, drain the tank completely to minimize corrosion.

Removing the Powered Anode:

1.Press the power button on the UIM to place the water heater in Standby Mode.

Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse panel.

3.Open a nearby hot water faucet and allow to run until the water is no longer hot.

4.De-pressurize the water heater by closing the cold water supply valve to the water heater and opening a nearby hot water faucet.

5.The powered anode is located on the left side of the heat pump compartment and is between the compressor and the evaporator.

6.Remove the top housing see “Removing the Top Housing” below to gain access to the powered anode.

7.Un-plug the red wire from the powered anode.

8.Use a 1-1/16 inch deep well socket with extension and long breaker bar to loosen and remove the powered anode.

Replacing the Powered Anode:

1.Apply a small amount of thread sealant to the threads of the replacement anode. Do not get thread sealant on anode.

2.Thread the anode into the spud and torque to 50 lb-ft.

3.Connect the red wire to the tab on the powered anode.

4.Re-fill the tank with water.

5.Apply power to the water heater and press the power button if needed to turn it on.

6.Wait eight (8) minutes for the dry fire detection to run and for water heating to begin.

7.Monitor the UIM to see if the powered anode fault repeats. It may take up to 70 minutes for a powered anode fault to appear.

Removing the Top Housing (Shroud):

1.Press the power button on the User Interface Module (UIM) to place the water heater in standby mode. Note: Power to the board is still present at this time.

2.Terminate all power to the unit at the breaker/fuse panel.

3.Using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver, remove the eight

(8) screws attaching the left louvered panel to the top of the unit and set aside.

4.Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two (2) screws from the control board cover located inside the top of the unit on the right side, then remove the cover by lifting up and out.

5.Locate the ribbon cable and disconnect from either CN211 or CN215. Thread the connector through the plastic grommet on the bottom left side of the control box.

6.Remove the seven (7) screws attaching the shroud to the top of the unit and carefully lift the top up and away from the unit.

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