CUTTING A SHOULDER
Use the parting tool first to reduce the wood to within 1/16” of the required shoulder and diameter (Fig. 43). Clean the waste stock out with the gouge (Fig. 44), then use the skew for the actual cutting of the shoulder (Figs. 45A and 45B), which is a duplication of squaring an end. The skew then makes the horizontal cut, but in a differ- ent manner from plain cylinder work. If the shoulder is long, use the ordinary skew position for the outer portion of the cut. At the angle between the horizontal and ver- tical cuts, the heel of the chisel moves into a position tangent between the skew and the cylinder (Fig. 46). In this position, raise the handle of the chisel slightly to allow it to cut while the tool moves along the rest. Use a very light cut to produce smooth work. The heel of the skew can be used for making the entire cut, if desired, but the cut, whether in this position or any other posi- tion, should not be picked up directly at the end of the stock. Horizontal cuts started directly from the end of the work will have a tendency to bite into the wood, often ruining the entire piece. Always run off the end and not into it. Where a very short shoulder makes this impossible, use the skew in a flat scraping position. If the cutting technique is used, engage only with the heel of skew in a very light cut.
CUTTING SMALL BEADS
Beads can be scraped or cut. Using the spear chisel is the easiest method of scraping, and works to best advantage on beads separated by parting tool cuts (Fig. 46). Scraping is slower than cutting and is not as clean, but it has the advantage of protecting the work from long gashes.
Cutting beads quickly and accurately with the small skew is one of the most difficult lathe operations. Various working methods can be used . The first cut is a vertical incision at the point where the two curved sur- faces will eventually come together. Make this cut with either heel or toe of skew. Fig. 47 shows the use of the toe. Place the skew at right angles to the work . The chis- el is flat on its side at the start, and is evenly rotated through the successive stages of the cut (Figs. 48, 49 and 50). At the same time, the chisel is pulled slightly backward to maintain the cutting point. The entire cut is made with the heel of chisel. The opposite side of the bead is cut in the same manner, one cut serving to produce the full shape in each instance. This action produces beads that are beautifully smooth and polished, and the technique is well worth mastering.
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| Fig. 43 |
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| Fig. 44 |
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| Fig. 45 |
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| Fig. 46 |
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Fig. 46
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| Fig. 47 |
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| Fig. 48 |
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| Fig. 49 |
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| Fig. 50 |
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