SYMPTOM | POSSIBLE CAUSE | |
Inadequate rinse. | 1. | Dirty line strainer causing reduced water flow. Turn off water supply, |
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| remove strainer cap, withdraw and clean screen. Reassemble. |
| 2. | Low supply line pressure. |
| 3. | Excessive mineral deposits throughout wash and rinse system. Deliming |
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| may be necessary. |
| 4. | Incoming water temperature to booster (if applicable) below 120°F. |
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| Extend wash cycle from 40 to 60 seconds. |
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Leaking valve (except solenoid | 1. | Foreign material preventing proper valve operation. NOTE: A critical |
type). |
| period is soon after installation when pipe compound or metal shavings |
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| may lodge at the valve seat. Shut off supply line. Unscrew and lift |
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| bonnet from valve body. Clean valve and reassemble. |
| 2. | If a solenoid valve is malfunctioning, it is recommended that you contact |
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| Service. |
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|
No wash tank heat. | 1. | The machine is equipped with a low water safety device which shuts off |
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| heat if the water level drops. Check for proper water level. If the water |
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| level is too low, the overflow tube might be out of position. |
| 2. | Circuit breaker to machine tripped. |
| 3. | Steam valve not open completely. |
| 4. | Gas line closed. |
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| If a failure occurs due to the gas heat control board or gas pressure, the |
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| reset button, located on the side of the gas burner control box, will pop |
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| out. This completely shuts off the gas heat system. To reset the system, |
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| push the button in. If the system does not reset, contact Service. |
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|
No or slow fill. | 1. | Dirty line strainer causing reduced water flow. Turn off water supply, |
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| remove strainer cap, withdraw and clean screen. Reassemble. |
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