4.Depending on your model, turn the Thermostat Control or Refrigerator Control to OFR See the "Setting or Using the Controls" section.
5.Unplug the refrigerator.
6.Empty water from the defrost pan.
7.Clean, wipe, and dry thoroughly.
8.Take out all removable parts, wrap them well, and tape them together so they don't shift and rattle during the move.
9.Depending on the model, raise the front of the refrigerator so it rolls more easily OR screw in the leveling legs so they don't scrape the floor. See the "Door Closing" or "Leveling Your Refrigerator" section.
10.Tape the doors shut and the power cord to the refrigerator cabinet.
When you get to your new home, put everything back and refer to the "Refrigerator Installation" section for preparation instructions. Also, if your refrigerator has an automatic ice maker, remember to reconnect the water supply to the refrigerator.
1ROUBLESHOOTING
Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the cost of an unnecessary service call,
Your refrigerator will not operate
•Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
•Has a household fuse or circuit breaker tripped? Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.
•Is the refrigerator or freezer control turned to the OFF position? Refer to the "Setting or Using the Controls" section.
•Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes, Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.
•Is the refrigerator not cooling? For models with digital controls, turn the unit OFF then ON again to reset. See the "Setting or Using the Controls" section. If this does not correct the problem, call for service.
The lights do not work
•Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded 3 prong outlet.
•Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See the "Changing the Light Bulb(s)" section,
There is water in the defrost drain pan
•Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.
•Is it more humid than normal? When it is humid, expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate.
The motor seems to run too much
•Is the room temperature hotter than normal? The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, it will run even more.
Has a large amount of food just been added to the
refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. The motor normally will run longer to cool the refrigerator back down.
Are the doors opened often? The motor will run longer when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as soon as possible.
Are the controls not set correctly for the surrounding
conditions? Refer to the "Setting or Using the Controls" section.
Are the doors not closed completely?. Close the doors firmly. If they do not close completely, see "The doors will not close completely" later in this section.
Are the condenser coils dirty? This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils.
Refer to the "Cleaning" section.
Are the door gaskets not sealed all the way around? Contact a technician or other qualified person.
NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one due to its
_,J_J_J_refrigeratorJJ ,,,,, ,_,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,seems to_,,make,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Thetoo much noise | _ |
•The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. See the "Normal Sounds" section.
The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice | _ |
•Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled, the ice maker should produce 70 to 120 cubes every 24 hours.
Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice? Wait 24 hours after ice maker
Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up) position (on some models)? Lower the wire shutoff arm to the ON (arm down) position. See the "ice Maker and Storage Bin/Bucket" section.
Is the ice maker switch in the OFF (right) position (on
some models)? Move ice maker switch to the ON (left) position. See the "ice Maker and Storage Bin/Bucket" section.
•Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned on? Turn on the water valve. See the "Water Supply Connection" section.
Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is turned on. See the "Water Supply Connection" section.
Is an ice cube jammed in the ice maker ejector arm? For models with an interior ice bin, remove the ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. For models with an ice bucket located on the freezer door, access the ice maker by depressing the ice sensor door on the upper left side of the freezer interior. While depressing the sensor door, lift the ice maker service door and remove the ice from the ejector with a plastic utensil. See the "ice Maker and Storage Bin/Bucket" section.
•Has a large amount of ice just been removed? Allow 24 hours for ice maker to produce more ice.
•Are the controls set correctly? See the "Setting or Using the Controls" section.
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