OPERATION
The kerf (the cut made by the blade in the wood) will be wider than the blade to avoid overheating or binding. Make allowance for the kerf when measuring wood.
Make sure the kerf is made on the waste side of the measuring line.
Cut the wood with the finish side up.
Knock out any loose knots with a hammer before making the cut.
Always provide proper support for the wood as it comes out of the saw.
TYPES OF CUTS
See Figure 20.
There are six basic cuts: 1) the cross cut, 2) the rip cut, 3) the miter cut, 4) the bevel cross cut, 5) the bevel rip cut, and 6) the compound (bevel) miter cut. All other cuts are combina- tions of these basic six. Operating procedures for making each kind of cut are given later in this section.
WARNING:
Always make sure the blade guard and
Cross cuts are straight 90° cuts made across the grain of the workpiece. The wood is fed into the cut at a 90° angle to the blade, and the blade is vertical.
Rip cuts are made with the grain of the wood. To avoid kickback while making a rip cut, make sure one side of the wood rides firmly against the rip fence.
Miter cuts are made with the wood at any angle to the blade other than 90°. The blade is vertical.
WARNING:
Always use a push stick with small pieces of wood, and also to finish the cut when ripping a long narrow piece of wood, to prevent your hands from getting close to the blade.
Bevel cuts are made with an angled blade. Bevel cross cuts are across the wood grain, and bevel rip cuts are with the grain. The rip fence must always be on the left side of the blade for bevel rip cuts.
Compound (or bevel) miter cuts are made with an angled blade on wood that is angled to the blade. Be thoroughly familiar with making cross cuts, rip cuts, bevel cuts, and miter cuts before trying a compound miter cut.
1
Cross Cut
2
Rip Cut
3
Miter Cut
4
Bevel Cross Cut
5
Bevel Rip Cut
6
Compound (Bevel) Miter Cut
Fig. 20
WARNING:
All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 rpm to prevent possible injury.
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