maintains clearances, keeps condensation and creosote within the pipe, and is capable of withstanding a two to three thousand degree chimney fire.
1.The connector pipe should slant down toward the furnace a minimum of 1/4" to the foot. At no time should the pipe turn downward toward the chimney or run horizontal.
2.There should be no more than two 90 degree elbows.
3.The connector pipe should never be longer than six feet. If it is absolutely necessary to make a run of more than six feet (not recommended) use extra support brackets every 3 feet.
4.The connector pipe should never be reduced to a smaller size than flue opening on the furnace.
5.The connector pipe should not block the flue of the chimney or extend into it in any way.
6.A good airtight thimble should be used to hold the connector pipe in the chimney. It should be constructed so the connector pipe can be removed for cleaning.
7.The connector pipe should not leave the heated portion of the building to reach the chimney.
8.The connector pipe should not pass from one story to the next before entering the chimney, nor should it pass through any closed or enclosed space.
9.The connector pipe and any elbows must be of 24 ga. or greater.
10.The connector pipe should not be located near or in a walk way or well traveled area.
11.All male ends of connector pipe should run or point towards the furnace.
DAMPERS ON STOVE PIPES
When you have installed the connector pipe between your furnace and the chimney, tap the pipe hard with your fingernail. Remember the sound it makes - it will be a "ting" echoing inside the stove pipe. If later you tap and hear a muffled thud, you are building up soot in the pipe and should clean it. This pipe should be cleaned at least once or twice during the heating season.
DO NOT CONNECT TWO HEATERS TO THE SAME CHIMNEY FLUE. The National Fire Prevention Association recommends that woodburning appliances vent into a separate flue from gas or oil furnaces. If such an installation is contemplated, first check with a local building inspector to find out if a separate flue for a woodburner is required.
If codes allow, use extreme care in making such installations. Be sure that one pipe is higher than the other so that the two openings will not be opposite each other. Also, when connecting two heaters into the same chimney flue, the flue size should be large enough to handle both heaters. Very few codes and standards allow same flue connection. Such installations can cause severe problems. Gas hoods and barometric dampers allow excess air into the chimney causing cooling of the flue gases and a greater creosote build-up potential. If the same flue connections are used, chimneys must be inspected more frequently and the chimney should be cleaned any time the creosote deposits exceed 1/4" thickness. A creosote fire in such a chimney can burn out of control because of the air leak through the barometric damper or gas hood. Keeping the chimney clean and burning well-seasoned wood is absolutely necessary. This type of instal- lation does require more frequent inspection and maintenance.
HEATED AIR DISCHARGE
The Clayton furnace is designed for use as a supplemental heating source. When used as a supplementary furnace, the 1600M is connected in conjunction with an oil, gas, or electric furnace to the existing duct work which distributes the heated air into several rooms and/or areas.
Though United States Stove Company expressly Does Not recommend the use of its furnaces to be installed and/or used as a free-standing heater, it is possible to achieve a reasonably safe and functional installation IF certain standard procedures are followed. The following are guidlines only and are intended to enable the furnace user to obtain resonable efficiency from his furnace, and with due respect to safety when installing as a "free- standing heater". If installed correctly, and in accordance with the instructions found in this manual, your warm air furnace may be installed as a "space heater" within living quarters, cabins, garage, or workshop. Please adhere to the following:
1)The use of a cold air return and/or filter box is mandatory. This will not only inscrease your blower life and provide filtered air, it will also help prevent the blower or blowers from "capturing" heated air exiting from the top of the furnace heat outlets.
2)If installed as purchased , without directing the heat away from the furnace itself, it will simply sit and cycle, turning the blowers off and on. The thermostat may not function properly.
3)All larger furnaces (or those with multi-speed blowers) absolutely require BACK PRESSURE to prevent premature winding failure. If allowed to operate at high RPM (As in "FREE AIR" mode - no ductwork or flow restrictions) the windings overheat, insulation melts and the motor simply burns up - not covered under warranty.
CONNECTING HOT AIR DUCT TO FURNACE
We strongly recommend that the warm air duct work be installed by a home heating specialist. If doing the installation yourself, before you decide which installation will best suit your needs, consult a qualified heating technician and follow his recommen- dations as to the safest and most efficient method of installation. The warm air duct must be constructed of metal with a minimum temperature rating of 250°F
The following illustrations are the only acceptable configurations when installed with existing oil or gas furnaces.
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES
INSTALLATION NO.1
With this installation, a back draft damper is inserted into the heat run before the plenum of the existing furnace to prevent air from the existing furnace to blow back into the furnace when it is not in use. When a back draft damper is employed, it should be located as close to the existing furnace plenum as practical.
BACK
DRAFT
DAMPER
HOTBLASTEXISTING
FURNACEFURNACE
