United States Stove B2350B owner manual Venting into a fireplace MAINTENANCE, Disposal of Ashes

venting into a fireplace

mAINTENANCE

Many people may wish to convert an existing fireplace to heater use. Usually, safe con- nection of stovepipe to a masonry chimney requires more effort than connection to a prefabricated chimney. The fireplace must be closed and sealed at the damper in the flue. Good sealants are high temperature caulking, ceramic wool, and furnace ce- ment. Always remember to inspect the masonry chimney and fireplace. If neces- sary, clean the flue and smoke shelf before beginning your installation. Install the heater into the chimney so that the system can be

heater is being vented into another appli- ance - the fireplace. This method should not beattemptedbecausecombustionproducts will deposit and build up in the firebox or fireplace. Be certain not to install a hazard in you house. You will void your warranty with this installation.

Connection of the stovepipe directly into the existing masonry chimney over the fireplace opening is the only approved method. This installation performs better, yielding easy to clean and inspect for creosote. Before begin- ning this type of installation plan carefully; a

DISPOSAL of ASHES

Ashes should be removed from the stove every few days or when ashes get to 2 to 3 inches deep. Always empty the stove when it is cold, such as in the morning. Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non combustible floor or on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the close container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Do not use the ash container to dispose of other trash.

CAUTIONS:

•ASHES COULD CONTAIN HOT EMBERS EVEN AFTER TWO DAYS WITHOUT OPERATING THE STOVE.

•THE ASH PAN CAN BECOME VERY HOT. WEAR GLOVES TO PREVENT INJURY.

•NEVER BURN THE STOVE WITH THE ASH TRAP OPEN. THIS WOULD RESULT IN OVER FIRING THE STOVE. DAMAGE TO THE STOVE AND EVEN HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT.

dismantled for cleaning and inspection.

high degree of skill is required to insure safety.

Creosote / SOOT - Formation and need for removal

Before deciding to convert your fireplace or existing chimney, keep in mind that older fireplaces and their chimneys are unsafe. They must be structurally sound, and the flue liner must be in good condition. Do not use a chimney if it is unlined (should have a tile clay liner to protect brickwork), have it relined professionally. Clearances to combustibles are explained in the previous section on masonry chimneys. If you have any questions regarding the condition of the chimney, consult a qualified engineer, competentmason,certifiedChimneySweep, or knowledgeable inspector.

Many prefabricated fireplaces fall into the “zero-clearance fireplace” category. This is a factory metal fireplace with multi-layered construction. It is designed to provide enough insulation and/or air cooling so that the base, back and sides can be safely placed in close contact with combustible floors and walls. Although many prefabricated fireplaces have been tested by nationally recognized organizations for use as fireplaces, they have not been tested to accept heaters. In fact, their use as such may void the manufacturer’s warranty.

Steel-lined fireplaces, on the other hand, can be used with heaters. These units use a 1/4-inch fire box liner and an air chamber in connection with 8 inches of masonry to meet code. They contain all the essential parts of a fireplace, firebox, damper, throat, smoke shelf, and smoke chamber. Many of them look exactly like a masonry fireplace and must be checked closely for above requirements before installing a coal heater into them.

Another method frequently used by some people is to vent the heater directly into the fireplace. This does not meet code since the

An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut through the chimney with minimum damage to the fire clay liner. Some involved measure- ments may be required to locate the flue liner exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark the size and position of the entry port. Position the entry port so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains below the port.

Keep in mind that wood mantels and com- bustible trim around the fireplace must have adequate clearances from the heater and stovepipe or must be protected in an ap- proved manner. Also, be sure to leave at least 24” clearance between the top of the stovepipe and the combustible ceiling or other combustibles. Placing the center of the entry port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure proper clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10 inchstovepipes.Next, install afireclay(atleast 5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble, being sure that the thimble is flush with the inner flue lining. Secure the thimble in place with refractory mortar. The thimble should be surrounded on all sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.

Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining. There should be a small air space (approximately 1/2 in.) between the stove- pipe and thimble, allowing for expansion of the stovepipe. Seal this airspace with high-temperature caulking or ceramic wool. Finally, be sure to wire the damper closed and apply the same sealant you used at the stovepipe and thimble junction.

Do notvent up through the fireplaceopening, regardless of whether the fireplace opening is closed.

When wood or coal is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote or soot. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote/soot residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote/soot makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood or coal, the chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice a month during the heating season to determine if a creosote/ soot build-up has occurred. If creosote/soot has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

If a chimney or creosote fire occurs, close all dampers immediately and call the fire department.

Once a chimney fire occurs, it can only be extinguished by removing its source of oxygen. This can be accomplished by shutting any mechanical draft devices and/or discharging a CO² (Carbon Dioxide) or Halon fire extinguisher directly into the heater through an appropriately placed cleanout. If using a Halon extinguisher, please note that it totally displaces oxygen and could become a hazard in itself if enough is discharged into the living space.

Wait for the heater to cool, then inspect the chimney area for damage. A chimney fire may cause ignition of wall studs or rafters which you thought were at a safe distance from the chimney. If no damage results, perform a chimney cleaning to ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining in the chimney. We suggest having your chimney inspected by a qualified person before using again.

Establish a routine technique for seasoning, storing, and burning your fuel. Check daily for creosote build-up until experience shows how often you need to clean to be safe. Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote or soot is deposited and weekly cleaning may be necessary in mild weather even though monthly cleaning may be enough during the colder months. Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a chimney fire if one occurs. Have a clearly understood plan to handle the situation if such an event were to happen.

notice:

KEEP YOUR CHIMNEY AND CHIMNEY

CONNECTOR CLEAN AND IN GOOD

CONDITION. Doing so can maintain

heater efficiency and reduce the risk

of a fire.

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